Firstly thankyou for a decent and very descriptive post!
Once the inlet of the overflow pipe is fully covered with water the siphon should start, if the pipe run is good. The fact that you have to raise the water past this, and submerge it more, suggests that the pipe run is not all it seems.
The siphon is important as it enlarges the effective capacity of the overflow pipe. While the water is partially covering the inlet of the overflow it makes a gurgling noise (which if the overflow pipe falls a long way can be very loud) and acts as a warning to what's going on. If the water can continue to rises to where it covers the inlet completely then it goes quiet but the flow increases markedly. Its flow is then depenedent on the pipe's bore and also vertical fall. For this reason some of the overflows I have fitted, once clearing the building, continue vertically downwards. Some fall by as much as several feet before ending. In small volume tank (like toilet cisterns) this ability to suck is important as there's a lot of systems around with an overflow that cannot take the full flow of the ball valve. Like Agile says turning down the inlet valve can be good but in a cold water tank sometimes you dont want to do that.
The vertical distance from the inlet of the overflow to the top of the tank gives you a buffer between the overflow occuring and the tank overflowing. Where the ball valve is is down to you and its requirements. Usually the ball valve mounting is above the normal working water line of the tank.
Hi Peet, thanks for the post. I have to say as a non-plumber (I work in the IT business) I have found this issue quite fascinating. I do love plumbing; especially when there are wonderfully knowledgeable people like you guys to help me out.
As I said in my OP the 3m x 21.5mm pipe and bent 90-degree tank connector are brand new; the pipe runs dead straight and true with absolutely no bends or kinks (except the 90-degree connector) and certainly no leaks anywhere.
As you say the essence of this problem is understanding how the siphon effect actually works in practice. I have observed the outflow very carefully and it is very sedate at first (accompanied by the gurgling that you mentioned) and gradually increases, but not majorly. Once the overflow pipe is 6.5cm below the waterline the pipe gives a small ‘gurgle’ and the full siphon effect kicks in and the water level drops very rapidly; air then re-enters the pipe and this sedate/full siphon cycle starts all over again.
Logically ( I’m big on logic, but unfortunately not plumbing!) there must be a small bubble/oval air-pocket that sits at the top of the pipe, ‘lurking’ around the 90-degree elbow, that gets slowly squeezed and shifted as the water pressure increases, to a point where its sudden release triggers the ‘full’ siphon effect. I strongly suspect that there must be a ‘tipping-point’ that has a direct correlation with the angle of the overflow pipe (25-degrees in my case). Pity they don’t make ‘transparent’ pipes and connectors then we could watch what is going on inside.
As I said before – all quite fascinating; or maybe I’m just a bit sad and obsessive...probably both!
The idea of reducing the water pressure to the inlet valve doesn’t really appeal as I don’t want to listen to the tank filling up any longer than necessary...especially at night.
To summarize, I think the watchword should be don’t put your overflow outlet too high up the wall of the tank. That is obviously something the original installer of my plumbing didn’t appreciate.
But neither did I...... then again I’m not a plumber!
Regards
PS have a look at this link regarding the definition and ‘correct’ explanation of a siphon.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/blog/2010/may/10/dictionary-definition-siphon-wrong
I told you I was a bit sad and obsessive.