LVT onto floating floor

[crazydaze]

Final question, with the ply wood should I cut door jams and slide underneath or work/go around this area?

Yes

 

[crazydaze]

Do you happen to know where to buy levelling pegs is it worth it? Kind of like the following pins that get covered by the screed

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screed-measuring-point-pcs-23-113/dp/B0757QKM9G

Of your using quality self levelling screed and spiked roller you won’t need pegs for self levelling screed

 

[baker332]

Thanks crazydaze mega helpful !

 

[baker332]

Finally started to attempt this with one room down have some further questions to ensure this is correct:

- I'm using a light weight nail gun this is 18 gauge nails at 50mm, would these be strong enough? Or should I go and invest in something more heavy duty?
- When cutting the 6mm ply is there an easier way than using a track saw, it's a full on effort to get the board propped when its so bendy.
- Is feathering in required if I'm going to be adding a layer of 2mm screed over the top of this?

Thanks

 

[dazlight]

50mm nails ? For 6mm plywood ? Should be 19mm. Also make sure they are ring shanks

 

[foxhole]

Screw down, a pin gun will bury the heads 2-3 mm leaving very little to secure ply. I would glue as well .

 

[baker332]

50mm nails ? For 6mm plywood ? Should be 19mm. Also make sure they are ring shanks

Brad nails, these specifically:

Tacwise Brad Nail Strip

When you've got detailed woodwork to attend to, grab your nail gun and load it up with this strip of brad nails from Tacwise. It has 5000 18-gauge nails that can be used to bind lightweight wood trims. Brad nails are small (these are 50 mm in length) and tricky to drive manually into wood...

www.toolstation.com

 

[baker332]

Screw down, a pin gun will bury the heads 2-3 mm leaving very little to secure ply. I would glue as well .

Would be a lot of screws, these sit flush but take this into account, will add glue and a couple of screws.

 

[robinbanks]

Screw guns are a thing, btw; never pass up an opportunity to buy more tools

Flooring ones exist too, but dare say that a compact one would be more versatile

 

[baker332]

Screw guns are a thing, btw; never pass up an opportunity to buy more tools

View attachment 355075

Flooring ones exist too, but dare say that a compact one would be more versatile

I have this exact model already

 

[baker332]

Any further thoughts on:

- When cutting the 6mm ply is there an easier way than using a track saw, it's a full on effort to get the board propped when its so bendy.
- Is feathering in required if I'm going to be adding a layer of 2mm screed over the top of this?

 

[dazlight]

Jigsaw to cut it or we use a exact saw
No feather and 2mm screed is to thin. Needs to be 3-6mm thick. We always go approx 4-5mm

 

[baker332]

Jigsaw to cut it or we use a exact saw
No feather and 2mm screed is to thin. Needs to be 3-6mm thick. We always go approx 4-5mm

Dazlight how would you measure say 4mm? Is it just done from the math, working out the amount required then flowing it around the room?

Another random thought, how do you join up to say a carpet? Do you put some kind of wooden stopper for the next room to stop the screed flow and providing a build up?

My issue is that I have 6mm ply, then I'm not using ply on the extension as this already has a level solid base up to my old subfloor (I should of originally gone up another 6mm for the ply but not yet laid). For this it's now required I raise up to 6mm with screed, then 4mm screed for the whole lot in one go, any alternatives as it's quite a large area.

 

[dazlight]

You can use a pin leveller. I use a screeding trowel. Every bag we mix goes 3m2 ish so I know it’s about right.

We use carpet underlay and spray it to the floor or sand to block it.
If high we use plywood and silicone

 

[baker332]

You can use a pin leveller. I use a screeding trowel. Every bag we mix goes 3m2 ish so I know it’s about right.

We use carpet underlay and spray it to the floor or sand to block it.
If high we use plywood and silicone

Thanks Dazlight, didn't know such tool existed, going to invest.

New thoughts and would appreciate further feedback on the project. I've worked that if I 6mm ply the whole 22m2 (subfloor) and as dazlight pointed out screed 4-5mm ontop of this, I'd then need to screed 6mm + 4-5mm on the 24m2 concrete extension floor, meaning something around the £800 mark just for levelling screed.

Suddenly this is amounting to a huge amount. Without cutting corners, I'm looking at the current wooden subfloor it's tongue and groove plywood it doesn't move only at the x2 door threshold part where there is no tongue and groove. I'm rethinking if the plywood is a good idea or not, or if there is another way here. The floor doesn't move only when say the washing machine is on vibrating most of that area.

Can I cut and remove the thresholds that are not using tongue and groove and replace with sand/screed? My idea here is to go without the 6mm plywood altogether providing a huge cost saving on self levelling screed, again without cutting corners would like to know others thoughts.

Couple of pictures however understand that someone would need to view this in person to get a feel for the work required.

Where extension meets subfloor:

Door threshold movement:

Ply wood on subfloor:

I'll be laying Karndean herringbone if that makes a difference.