Maintenance on gates.

in my opinion, it would need planing to get back to bare wood.

Don't even consider taking a plane to it. It'll do far more harm than good. Just work at it with the sander. Personally wouldn't go overboard with it. Just do 'enough' then treat it repeatedly for a while.
 
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What Osmo stain was used on it - generally speaking if you're using a lighter coloured stain it has a lower UV SPF.

What you're seeing is where the water repellency has worn off and the UV rays have started to break down the wood. As per my previous you should try the OSMO wood reviver gel http://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=270 - this should then allow you to blend in some more osmo on the unprotected areas, then sand the (whole) gates lightly with 120 grit on a Random Orbit sander and re-coat with OSMO, if you opt for a low UV rating oil then finish off with a coat of their UV protection oil. In future you should then just need to give it a coat of the UV oil periodically.

OSMO is good stuff but like any exterior product it has it's pros and cons and unfortunately it doesn't sound like you were given the right advice with regards to upkeep.
 
Odd, a sander with a good pad should get back to the bare wood quite easily. The stain has not gone too deep as demonstrated by the worn areas.

Maybe the sanding pad was a cheapo pad. Abranet sanding pads are very high quality if you wanted to try another.

I sanded some velux which has a similar colour varnish on with a low powered detail sander and it came off in seconds with a normal 80grit pad.
OSMO is an oil based stain so it soaks into the wood - it doesn't sit on the surface as a film.
 
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Odd, a sander with a good pad should get back to the bare wood quite easily. The stain has not gone too deep as demonstrated by the worn areas.

Maybe the sanding pad was a cheapo pad. Abranet sanding pads are very high quality if you wanted to try another.

I sanded some velux which has a similar colour varnish on with a low powered detail sander and it came off in seconds with a normal 80grit pad.
UPDATE.
Please see the photos. below to see what happened when I tried the sanders. The lightest area is where I used the belt sander but I did have to dwell for about 5-6 seconds just on that one place to achieve that result. The area underneath that shows where I used the orbital sander with an 80 grit pad and I also used the mouse sander on it with a new 80 grit pad. There is no way of taking every part of the gates back to bare wood. Some parts of the joinery are quite intricate and are only accessible using the mouse sander.

IMG_7048small.jpg


IMG_7049small.jpg
 
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Don't even consider taking a plane to it. It'll do far more harm than good. Just work at it with the sander. Personally wouldn't go overboard with it. Just do 'enough' then treat it repeatedly for a while.
UPDATE.
Sorry, that was a very tongue in cheek remark from me. I wouldn't dream of using a plane on the gates, it's just that I am so annoyed about not being able to sort out the problem.
 
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What Osmo stain was used on it - generally speaking if you're using a lighter coloured stain it has a lower UV SPF.
UPDATE.
Osmo UV Protection Oil was used after they were made 2 years ago and also when they went back to the joinery shop 12 months ago. This was the stuff but now I see that the word "Extra" has been added. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil Was this the wrong material to use on the gates ?
 
In my mind if it is an oil or a hybrid of sorts, you do not need (or will be unable, as you have found) to remove it all. You just need to give the surface a light sand all over then apply a new coat(s) of oil. I would certainly apply more than one. This will end up blending old and new. but you need a consistent sand. I would avoid the belt sander, they can be far too powerful (you are meant to move them constantly). A small random orbit sander at the most.

I think a decent hand sanding pad should be fine. Start with a low grit, and finish with a high grit. Then start to re-apply coats. Whether you go for another oil or stick with Osmo is up to you. It should not affect it too much.

Try a test area. I would just do it on that bottom support (where you have sanded already). Try and sand the rest of it to the same/similar colour. Then re-apply a few coats. Use it as a test area. If it works, use the same method for the rest of the gate. Just use a hand sander though and sand less.

Edit: look at the product information download sheet on the page you linked to. It also has some useful surface preparation notes.

Edit: Looking at the data sheet - the osmo stuff is no different from the Sadolin decking oil I plan to use. It is a natural oil/white spirit mix. In fact Osmos own branded decking oil seems to be no different in make-up. Maybe a few minor tweaks. So it seems to be a case of multiple products branded for different uses but are pretty much the same thing.

Personally, I would do as I suggested above. Light sand and apply at least 2 coats. Try a test area first.
 
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Thank you Dishman and to everyone else who is contributing to my topic. I actually had a "live chat" with someone this morning after finding what I thought was Osmo's web site. But every time to go to it you land on www.wood-finishes-direct.com Anyway, I got an email address from the lady I was live chatting to and was able to outline the problem and sent a few photos, same as I have posted on here. Had a couple of replies which I have yet to read.
 
UPDATE.
Osmo UV Protection Oil was used after they were made 2 years ago and also when they went back to the joinery shop 12 months ago. This was the stuff but now I see that the word "Extra" has been added. http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil Was this the wrong material to use on the gates ?
No that isn't the wrong stuff but in your case it looks like it's lost it's water repellent effect so needed reapplying before it 'silvered' - as the wood has silvered you need to restore the colour so as per my previous post I would use the Osmo gel reviver which is an oxalic acid based product on the weathered areas, then lightly sand all the gate and then reapply the oil - you may need to do an extra coat in the weathered areas.

Osmo's contact number is as follows, I spoke to them a couple of times while I was trying to settle on the right colour for my deck, they're knowledgeable and helpful opn the technical team.
01296 481220
 
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BTW the 'extra' is effectively the old version iirc, the new version gives UV protection but contains no biocides to protect against rot/insects etc.
 
Hi scooby

Did you get anywhere with your issue?

READ THIS

I just had my brand new iroko hardwood gates arrive.

Putting osmo oil on after a lot of research. My painter bought osmo from local supplier they said we MUST hang gates and allow them to weather for 12 weeks before adding any oil to the gates

This sounded crazy to me and my painter but they said they recently had a customer oil them straight away and got Osmo tech team out to it after 1 year as gate was weathering badly

So I rang tech team and spoke in length to them who said that because Iroko is such an oily wood it needs to left outside weathered for approx 12 weeks to allow all the natural oils out of the wood. If you oil it straight away you will seal it up and stop the oils coming out which will cause the wood to weather badly

Also spoke to a very experienced painter literally the best reputation in the area and he said the same thing as the tech guys at osmo. If it’s a different wood for eg cedar then they recommend to oil immediately. But because it’s specifically Iroko it’s to be left for 12 weeks so I will be doing that and then applying osmo oil on it

Hope this helps someone or makes sense

Please let me know your thoughts or experiences. My gates are being hung in 4 days
 

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