Masonry joist Hangers - How to?

Personally I couldn't think of anything more difficult than trying to fix a 4m long 8x2 ledger onto crappy uneven old inner skin brickwork in your average loft - masonry hangers inserted into joints for me. Nice plumb concrete blockwork may be a different matter.

OP should also consider any chimney breasts (presumably you have to trim round rather than fix to?) and potential openings for staircase.
 
Sponsored Links
I have installed a loft ladder which will suffice for now. As for the chimney breast I was hoping to do the same and add hangers into the brickwork.
 
Personally I couldn't think of anything more difficult than trying to fix a 4m long 8x2 ledger onto crappy uneven old inner skin brickwork in your average loft - masonry hangers inserted into joints for me. Nice plumb concrete blockwork may be a different matter.

OP should also consider any chimney breasts (presumably you have to trim round rather than fix to?) and potential openings for staircase.
Fair comment.
 
A circular saw is a bit dodgy, a grinder likewise although possible if you can work safely - not off a ladder.

Use a drill to drill one or two holes to then get a recip saw blade in to cut a slot - OK if on a joint or the blocks are AAC. Or stitch drill a series of holes.

The bottom of the slot has to be flat, level and square to the face to set the hanger - that's important. The top of the slot does not matter so much, but the hanger must then be wedged in tight with slate or well packed strong mortar.
 
Sponsored Links
No, I doubt that product has the actual compressive strength of mortar, it looks like it's just a mastic that is mortar colour.

It's important that the top of the hangers are wedged down, so wedging or pointing is needed.

The blade of your saw must be deep enough for the hanger, so that means a big saw, and you'll need to be careful of kickback when using a big circular saw in such a position.
 
what product do you guys recommend?
We would stitch drill and plug out or similar. Aim for the centre of the joint so as to not destroy any of your seating masonry. If you decide to pack above with strong mortar, make sure you damp the masonry down first. It'll help with the curing and prevent it drying out too quick. Personally I'd try and pack with some slate or metal.
 
Just a question - if you are pocketing joists I assume you are lowering the floor/ceiling below the wall plate. Have you removed old ceiling joists? have you taken account of the fact they don't just hold the ceiling up, but may also laterally brace the roof against spreading? Just guessing......
 
Nope, not lowering then floor. Adding these joists and boarding.we will lose some height but we're OK with that
 
It already has some insulation there which will remain, the new joists will go in the opposite direction and they will have insulation too. Want to use floor boards for the floor nit just OSB boards or similar.

The rafters will also have insulation in-between, then will cover with boards (not sure which atm), plaster and paint.
 
It already has some insulation there which will remain, the new joists will go in the opposite direction and they will have insulation too. Want to use floor boards for the floor nit just OSB boards or similar.

The rafters will also have insulation in-between, then will cover with boards (not sure which atm), plaster and paint.
All accessible via a loft ladder? Sounds like a dodgy (fire-trap) loft conversion to me.
 
In his context I'd assume dodgy to mean "performed without the supervision and approval of an authorised building control body"
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top