Meile WT2670 Dryer not workin

[Nuttyboffin]

Hi all you Meile experts out there. On drying cylce clothes come out nearly as damp as they are after a wash. clothes are barely warm. The dryer runs though the full cycle and does not report any faults. I am competent with repairing electrical appliances, but would appreciate anyone helping with where I can get a service / repair manual for this machine and advice on any common faults to go for first. Many thanks.

 

[RichardMNZ]

Is the condenser clogged with lint?

 

[Nuttyboffin]

Hi Richard, There was alot of lint located at the top of the condenser where the fan circulates, which I have cleaned out. I also checked the cowling aound the elements which was clear. Both heating elements are O.K as is the Thermal cutout. I cheked the temperature sensor on front of top cowling at ambient and 95 degrees centigrade. Appears to be an NTC and OK. Clothes are still hot and damp and drying cycle is shorter than what we would normally expect. (compared to when it worked correctly). Could it be that the condensator cowling is not being supplied with water? Nor sure how this is supposed to work? How does machine determine when clothes are dry? Thanks for your help.

 

[jj4091]

I think there may be another ntc sensor in the condenser cowling ( or that area ) that detects when the clothes are dry.

 

[RichardMNZ]

That big metal plate on the door is used to sense the level of dryness.

I have a WT945 and that machine has an NTC in the air heater on the top. The only other ntc is at the bottom by the heater element.

Did you find a schematic under the lid?

 

[AlastairE]

Ive had the condenser coolant water-solenoid fail on my WT945....

--Its the Pink solenoid of the pair near the back of machine, the coil should read around 3.6K ohm. Mine was O/C and therefore no water-flow so the condenser didnt extract the water/moisture from the re-circulating air and hot steamy clothes was the result....

The solenoid-coil itself can be replaced with care, it will extract off the plastic part of the valve.
--Its best just to replace the coil only--as that valve has a flow reducer with the valve and flows (at some nominal pressure) 0.25L/Min.

The coils of these solenoids appear pretty universal, I used one I rescued from a dead machine, it was even the same make coil, although wasn't pink, and its DC resistance was 4K, worked fine however....

Worth also checking the two small pipes from these two valves, as they can crack and leak, because they are fixed one end, and attached to the condenser on the drum that bounces around a bit when running.........

 

[Nuttyboffin]

Many thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I have checked the condensate soleniod resistance and was 3.7K Ohm and with lid off the machine I can hear / and feel water running in the condensate feed pipe at the start of the drying cycle. Both heating elemnets get power and generate heat. On the display the dry cycle initially states about 40min but no sooner have the elements had power and raised the temperature of the metal cowling (approx. 5-10 mins) then the program moves on to "Cool down" with run time on the display suddenly reduced to 15 mins. The clothes come out marginally dryer than they were when they went in but still damp. I do have a circuit diagram, but unclear what the sequence of the program is for this machine. All I can think is that the circulating air is too hot, or temperature sensor is reporting artificially high temperture and hence micro controller thinks the clothes are dry and ready for "Cool down". The NTC on the metal cowl where elemets housed shifts with temperature, but maybe it is out of calibration. How does the big metal plate on the window sense dryness? There is only one wire running from it which is earthed to the chassi? Any suggestions on where I should go from here would be appreciated. I am thinking to replace the NTC in the metal cowling, but baffeled as to how this dryness sensor on the window works, maybe this is the problem area?

 

[AlastairE]

Sounds to me like it may have poor air circulation from the condenser to heater back to drum....

Is the tiny belt from dryer motor to fan OK?

You can run these machines --with the front cover panel open, door closed to front panel--See if there's a good flow of air from the heater into the drum....

 

[Nuttyboffin]

Hi Alastair. thanks for your help. I will check these things out. Do you know what sensors the machine uses to determine the clothes are dry? How does this door sensor work? Thanks again.

 

[AlastairE]

Door sensor as far as I know is a humidity sensor.

How does the machine perform if you use a timed dry as opposed to a 'normal' (or sensed) dry?

 

[bpowell555]

Putting a note on this so I can find it, hope that's OK mods

 

[Nuttyboffin]

The Fix !!! By way of an update. Replacing the main controller P.C.B . (Located in the top right hand corner of the machine). Nothing else was changed. The machine now works perfectly. New control P.C.B "EFL180" Part Number 05728075. The board was a reconditioned unit I purchased off ebay at a price of £130.00, inclusive of delivery. No programming required just need to ensure all the connectors go back into the right place! Start to finish the job takes about 30 minutes to do.