MICC cable

[schmeagle]

Hi to everyone on DIYnot.com.
I am now on the second year of the C&G2330 and have to say think I will be using this forum a lot from now on as my tutors are useless and don’t seem to want to help or share there advice.

Could someone give me some advice about MICC cable as never terminated it before and will be very soon. If someone could walk me through how to do this and give me any tips along the way (i.e. what is the MICC crimping tool used for? Is it just holding the seal in place etc?), "I would be really grateful for any help".
Also can MICC cable run along side other cables on a tray or in trunking? Can’t seem to find anything in the reg's or text book?

Thanks to all that try and help me as I am desperate to do well in this course.

Tom.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Try this previous post
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=96092&view.

 

[flameport]

Instructions with digrams showing how the various tools can be used:

http://www.tycothermal.com/assets/E...tion Instruction/4142/CDE-0923 Rev 0-1_06.pdf

Alongside other cables - possibly, but this depends on the operating temperature of the cables, as bare pyro can be run at much higher temperatures, and could damage the insulation of adjacent cables.

 

[Spark123]

Sorry if I have missed anything, has been a couple of years since I did one now!

Firstly the termination usually consists of two parts, a gland and a pot.
Dont forget to fit the shroud before the gland if req'd too.
Terminating is pretty straight forwards, mark where the end of the thread which goes into the pot needs to go.
Using pipe cutters score around the cable at this point, but do not cut too deep and do not go right through the cable.
I tend to use a T bar next, using a pair of side cutters and pliers to get the copper started at the end of the cable, peel it back holding it at about 45deg and peeling the copper away so it wraps onto the T-bar.
When you get to the score the copper will snap off.
A cable stripper can be used instead of a T bar, but not as much fun from the apprentice point of view seeing who can make the longest piece of copper without it snappping
Now make sure that the internal cores are not in contact with any of the outer sheath, a Megger is a useful tool but be careful of the other end!
Place the pot the correct way around into the gland and tighten the gland into the potting tool so it secures the pot.
The olive and the back of the gland need to be attached but not tightened.
Screw the pot onto the cable, it is screwed on far enough when you can see a small amount of copper protruding through the pot.
Release the potting tool.
Check the inner cables haven't caught again.
Warm and kneed some of the sealing compound still in the bag between your fingers so it goes soft.
You are not meant to touch the compound btw.
From one side of the pot only, feed the compound in and keep feeding it in until it has come up the other side and is flush with the top of the pot.
Insert the small plack spacer and push down so it squeezes out and the spacer goes flush with the top of the pot.
Crimp the spacer into the pot using the crimping tool.
Sleeve the conductors, tighten the gland into the accessory and tighten the back of the gland up.
Bobs your mothers brother!

You don't really need to run MICC in trunking, nothing to say it can't be but I have never seen it done. You can run it on tray yes. It can run along side other cables no bother.

 

[schmeagle]

Try this previous post
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=96092&view.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your reply could not really see any MICC in this post though?

Thanks for all your advice, I know this is going to take a little while and a couple of attempts to get it correct. Just need a head start on the subject so I know what people are talking about.
Like to be one step ahead when electrics and study involved.

Has anyone ever herd of a fly lead?
Also the conversion method of wiring? What is this? I know 2 plate and 3 plate well but never herd of this method or why it was introduced?

 

[ricicle]

[quote="schmeagle";p="1371767]Has anyone ever herd of a fly lead?[/quote]

Some pots are available with an earth 'fly lead' soldered to the side of them. Particularly useful if the MICC is only two core and the sheath is the CPC.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Try this previous post
www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=96092&view.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your reply could not really see any MICC in this post though

That's strange why does that link do that, sorry pal.
Houston we have a problem

 

[schmeagle]

No worries Prenticeboyofderry. I appreciate any time and effort spent with anyone trying to help. I need help ("laugh out loud"). Not even got to the third year yet either.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

No worries Prenticeboyofderry. I appreciate any time and effort spent with anyone trying to help. I need help ("laugh out loud"). Not even got to the third year yet either.

You'll love the level 3 stuff, much the same as level 2 but more in depth and written answers not just GOLA exams

 

[holmslaw]

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[holmslaw]

..

 

[jockspark]

Instructions with digrams showing how the various tools can be used:

http://www.tycothermal.com/assets/E...tion Instruction/4142/CDE-0923 Rev 0-1_06.pdf

Alongside other cables - possibly, but this depends on the operating temperature of the cables, as bare pyro can be run at much higher temperatures, and could damage the insulation of adjacent cables.

micc or pyro will not damage insulation of adjacent cables.
the micc will never get hot unless you have a real 4king
problem

 

[flameport]

the micc will never get hot unless you have a real 4king problem

See table 4G2A.

 

[Steve]

I will be using this forum a lot from now on as my tutors are useless and don’t seem to want to help or share there advice.

Have you complained to the organisers of the course? Your tutors are there to help you. If they dont want to know, they should get someone in who does.

 

[333rocky333]

It is usually best to insulation test before final crimping, as well as after.

There is an old post here also.

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