MICC cable

RF Lighting's guide to terminating MICC cable.

You will need:

micc1.jpg


From left to right: Pot (this one has an earth tail), pot seal, gland, potting compound, joistripper, pot crimper, stub sleeving, pliers.

Step 1:

micc2.jpg


Cut the cable off square. This can be done with a junior hacksaw, a ringing tool or sharp cable shears.

If the MICC is old, cut 100mm - 200mm off the end. The magnesium oxide is hygroscopic, and will have absorbed moisture.

You will not be able to get a joistripper started if the cable has been cut with sidecutters or pliers.

Step 2:

micc3.jpg


Start to strip the cable by turning the joistripper clockwise down the cable.

Step 3:

micc4.jpg


When you have stripped the cable to the desired length, lightly grip the cable with your pliers. Run the joistripper upto the pliers. This will give you a nice clean square cut.

micc5.jpg


Step 4:

micc6.jpg


Put the gland top, olive and gland bottom onto the cable. Do not tighten it up yet.

Step 5:

micc7.jpg


Screw the pot onto the cable until the sheath of the cable is flush with the bottom of the pot.

Be very careful not to twist the cable whilst screwing the pot on.

Then pull the wires slightly apart, and test the wire ends for shorts with an insulation tester.

Step 6:

micc8.jpg


Slightly over-fill the pot with potting compound. You should work it in a bit at a time from either side of the pot.

Use the backing paper from the compound to push it into place, being careful not to touch the compound, as this could contaminate it with grease / dirt, which could cause the pot to not properly insulate the end.

Step 7:

micc9.jpg


Slide the pot seal into place, making sure the wires are not twisted.

Step 8:

micc10.jpg


Insert the pot assembly into your pot crimper, making sure the three prongs on the crimper are between where the wires come through the seal.

Step 9:

micc11.jpg


Crimp the pot.

micc12.jpg


You can see in the second picture what I mean about lining the prongs up on the crimper between where the wires come through the seal.

Step 10:

micc13.jpg


Sleeve the wires with stub sleeving, and then carry out another insulation test to ensure the cable is fault free. You will then need to carry out a continuity test to give the cable it's polarity.

Step 11:

micc14.jpg


Slide the gland into place. You would normally tighten this up once the gland has been screwed into whatever the cable is being terminated into.

Step 12:

Go wash your hands. Magnesium oxide is poisonous, and must not be ingested.

:D
 
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Nice work RF.

I have always put the seal on to hold the wires in place about 70 mm away from the pot before filling the compound though.

Then again it was mostly 4 core stuff I did then so proberly more use.
 
[quote="333rocky333";p="1372205"

There is an old post here also.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=95788&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0[/quote]

Yea thanks for that, I was looking at it this morning but there was not quite as much in to the technique on terminating as I was looking for.


Thanks Steve and yea I did put a complaint in to the head of department but none of the other tutors are as bad as this one in question. He states that we should be able to do all these installations even though we have not done them before. I hope that we shall be getting more advice along the way soon as all this is going towards our 205 exam and the day in the day.
So far I have distinctions in all my previous exams and I just want to keep up that record hence why I am reading up on the tasks just before I have got to them.

Thank you to everyone that has posted a reply, all comments have all been really helpful to me.
 
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I did C+G 2330 level 2 last year and we did Pyro.

There are a few ways of doing it with a joy striper as shown above, a rod with a slot cut in the ned of it. One of our lectures stripped it with a pencil, or my choice a pair of side cutters.

Once you have dont it once its easy.

God i really really want to go pot and gland a length of pyro now.

A
 
What are you having to do for your 205 exam we learnt hot to terminate pyro but it wasnt on our 205 exam our 205 exam used that fp200 crap.

A
 
God i really really want to go pot and gland a length of pyro now.
Ah jeez, another one....

Seriously - good work RF - very informative.

Is there a different crimper size for each cable size, or are pots a bit like SWA glands in that one size fits a range of cables?
 
Thank you RF, this will prove extremely useful when I come to the pyro stage of the 2330
 
What are you having to do for your 205 exam we learnt hot to terminate pyro but it wasnt on our 205 exam our 205 exam used that fp200 crap.

A


Well don't really know yet it seems to be on line multiple choice about fixing SWA, de-burring conduit (using a reamer), lightning protection BS numbers (BS 5839), not using PVC outside because: UV rays can damage the construction of the PVC material. Stuff like that anyway.
I think I will be ok with this But the day in the bay is some thing that we will not know about until we are doing it. Think they will get us to do a project of a radial, ring final, 1 & 2 way lighting in conduit etc. Because I do not really know what we are going to cover I am trying to get as far ahead as I can and learn tips in every different aspect so there will be nothing I will not know about if asked to do it.
 
Is there a different crimper size for each cable size, or are pots a bit like SWA glands in that one size fits a range of cables?

The crimper will fit all the same external diameter size pots, the pots which fit 20mm glands are afaik all the same ext diameter.
Each pot and gland must be ordered to fit the specific size pyro, for example if you need a pot and gland for a 2 core light duty 1.5mm pyro you'd order a 2L1.5 gland and pot.
 

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