Mira Advance Flex 8.7KW v 9.8KW

[Luckyphil]

I’ve fitted plenty of Electric Showers over the years , it’s always a case of you get what you pay for imo , I’ve fitted plenty of Showers specifically designed for the Older generation , one I’d always recommend is the Mira Advance its costly maybe around £320 or so but it’s got the safety features you need , at this time of year there’s always a lower heat output / so you have to reduce the flow due to the incoming supply being so cold

Good luck with your search and picking the right Model

Regards

Phil

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I’ve fitted plenty of Electric Showers over the years , it’s always a case of you get what you pay for imo , I’ve fitted plenty of Showers specifically designed for the Older generation , one I’d always recommend is the Mira Advance its costly maybe around £320 or so but it’s got the safety features you need , at this time of year there’s always a lower heat output / so you have to reduce the flow due to the incoming supply being so cold

That one claims to be thermostatic, so it should be able to deliver water at whatever temperature you set, winter and summer - mine does. It's a Mira, you just set it, and it adjusts the Kw input, and the water flow, to produce water at the temperature set.

 

[blup]

Whilst not thermostatic, I understand they must be fitted with scalding protection, in the form of an over temperature cutout.

I personally, would not consider fitting one which was not thermostatic - set once and forget.

Strangely, the triton doesn't have scald control, I had believed it was a legal requirement but apparently not. Not a problem unless the user has issues with mental or physical capacity.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Strangely, the triton doesn't have scald control, I had believed it was a legal requirement but apparently not. Not a problem unless the user has issues with mental or physical capacity.

Triton safeguard does

 

[SUNRAY]

That isn't thermostatic, and like most of them has the risk of scalding if the flow is reduced.

Do you know that from personal experience of scalding?

Tritons have overtemp thermostat to prevent scalding and some versions have a second non resettable.

I have tried using a failed unit with a pump to heat a bath for a chemical treatment, I was just about to add chemical to the warming water (not quite hot enough) when the stat clicked, I may have lost the treatment if the cutout tripped after I'd added the final compound.

 

[SUNRAY]

Strangely, the triton doesn't have scald control, I had believed it was a legal requirement but apparently not. Not a problem unless the user has issues with mental or physical capacity.

Every Triton I've dealt with has a thermostat and complies with anti-scald requirements.

 

[SUNRAY]

Flow rate is limited by the input power, the only way to get more flow is to increase the power or reduce the temperature of the water.

Increasing the power only goes so far, even with a 10.5kW shower you will only get about 5 litres/minute with a 30C temperature rise, which might get you 40C water out of it in the summer.

Eh 40º?
Why would you want to exceed 40º?

If that's all they 'might get' to why do they need anti-scald arrangements?

 

[JohnW2]

If that's all they 'might get' to why do they need anti-scald arrangements?

If there were no thermostatic control (or, at least, an ovr-temp cutoff) (do such animals exist), the way to get very high output temps would presumably be to (when possible) manually turn down the flow rate to a very low level?

Kind Regards, John

 

[SUNRAY]

If there were no thermostatic control (or, at least, an ovr-temp cutoff) (do such animals exist), the way to get very high output temps would presumably be to (when possible) manually turn down the flow rate to a very low level?

Kind Regards, John

Absolutely and that is how I ran the chemical bath but the automatic anti-scald over temp thermostat/cut-out kicked in and I really didn't expect it to be such a low temp.

 

[JohnW2]

Absolutely and that is how I ran the chemical bath but the automatic anti-scald over temp thermostat/cut-out kicked in and I really didn't expect it to be such a low temp.

Most authorities/sources seem to say that the very maximum shower temp should be about 43°C - so I suppose any temp above that would be reasonable for an 'anti-scold cut-out' threshold. Do you know what sort of temp did yours 'cut off' at?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ebee]

As I said earlier I made a "Blanket Statement".
The bog standard showers are fixed heaters and you control the water flow rate to alter the temperature.
That is good enough for lots of folk but by no means all.
They all have a "Thermal Cut Out" of some sort to disconnect 1 or more elements but are still capable of being extremely (scalding) hot until the water flow has flushed a bit.
Some of them have this feature in the N conductor path rather than the L path.
That`s yer basic one but it does rely on an able bodied person using/supervising it.

Other models have thermostatic controls and they are often run by electronics.

Inevitably, over the years, I have seen more failures on the "E" models (Electronic) because no matter how well the manufacturer tries to enclose it it is an electronic circuit in a high water vapour/steam environment.
Of course, each generation is, hopefully, better than the last one.

If you are needing this thermostatic protection then it gives more arguement for a gas boiler than an electric shower.

Like I said - Horses for courses.

 

[blup]

Every Triton I've dealt with has a thermostat and complies with anti-scald requirements.

Nothing I can see on my T80 easi fit. Separate temperature and flow controls to get the balance right, and no run on when the showers turned off to get rid rid of excess hot water. It just turns straight off. I suspect the effect of the thermostatic showers reduce overall flow to get the temperature right. But a 10 kw triton gives plenty of hot water, with a reasonable flow even in the temperatures we're currently experiencing.

 

[ebee]

Yes the Thermostatic showers run on a bit to cool water temp in its boiler so if the next user switches on very quickly it does not eject a scalding hot slug of water.
A Plumber I know wanted to site the shower unit past the spray/rail but I prevented him on the "next user hot slug" basis. Just one of those small details some trades do not realise. Some folk get into bath/shower basin before switching on. I always ensure they switch on before getting in (usually still fully dressed and it gives time to flow then normalise to before getting in).

Triton T80 Easy Fit does not have a thermostat as such (just a thermal cut out, but yes it does rest auto so technically it is a thermostat).

In fact it`s a cut OFF not a CUT OUT because it cuts back in once cool!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Nothing I can see on my T80 easi fit. Separate temperature and flow controls to get the balance right, and no run on when the showers turned off to get rid rid of excess hot water. It just turns straight off.

I saw the running on, as a sensible feature, to prevent the internals from over heating from the residual heat.

It just turns straight off. I suspect the effect of the thermostatic showers reduce overall flow to get the temperature right. But a 10 kw triton gives plenty of hot water, with a reasonable flow even in the temperatures we're currently experiencing.

Yep - Mine works fine too - It's preset, to a comfortable temperature on the dial, I just press the button and wait a few seconds for the temperature to stabilise, then duck in. The only thing which upsets it, is if someone in the house turns a cold tap on, then it detects low pressure and shuts down.

 

[blup]

It's fine for everyday use, the electric thermostatic models are a lot pricier for not much more spec.