Mira Flight low tray - bent

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My Mira Flight tray arrived yesterday and immediately it 'looked' bent like a banana. I dismissed it but when I put a plasterers edge along it, it was out by around 5mm or so in the middle measuring along the top edge and measuring the bottom edge of course meant that it was 5mm or so at both ends.

Maybe it's OK for it to be like that, but I didn't see how. Has anyone else experienced this?

I spoke to Mira who explained that there is a tolerance of 4mm in their manufacturing process and it would settle down once fitted. I pointed out that once fitted into a bed of sand/cement it was going nowhere, so would stay bent.

They suggested siliconing it. I asked how I would be able to silicone the ( bent) base to a ( level) plinth. The answer wasn't clear, except to reiterate that there is a tolerance and there is some flex in them. Stone resin - flex?

I then asked how the shower doors would fit if the tray was 5mm lower in the middle. Again, not sure.

I said that there would a permanent puddle in the middle of the tray if I fitted as it is, but they simply said that it would 'depend on how it was fitted'. As per the instuctions I said, LEVEL.

Then they wanted some pictures to show the 'discrepency' but then changed that to, go back and exchange iit. Not easy because no-one STOCKS these trays in my area, which is why I had to get it ordered in the first place. They agreed that actual stockists were an issue.

I'm surprised by the quality checks that were done at Mira, I thought they were supposed to be one of the better companies?

At the moment, I have it in my front room upside down on wooden battons at either end and a heavy drill kit in the middle. It appears that there is some flex in these trays, but whether it will un-bend it, I dont know. As a back up, I have ordered another tray and will check it at the suppliers before I do anything else. In addition, I have ordered a riser kit because over-adjusting the middle legs seems to be the only way that I may be able to 'force' the tray straight at all.
 
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Sadly Mira's customer service department are often as unhelpful as you've discovered. It's the main reason I've stopped using their kit.

I'd certainly reject a tray with that much of a bend in it. I find it highly unlikely that it would bend back again
 
I found a couple of trays like that - rejected in a plumbers merchant - I used them upside down as a path in my veg garden. From the same place I had 3 countertop washbasins that were distorted. All stuff for my own home. I'm glad I don't have to source items for customers, there seems no quality control now. The trays were not Mira AFAIK. The basins were a " quality" brand - well they were when I started in the 70's:unsure:
 
If the tray has been through a courier hub 2 hub 2 delivery opp system then it could have been damaged,cant say any more :sneaky:.

have fitted many flights they need correct installation.never had a fault with them. Onsite considerations are necessary ie an experienced installer will understand and just get on with the job :D,

if its damaged,return it.If not have it and any enclosure fitted by a competent person,some jobs are not deemed diy

clue is in water proofing ;)
 
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I thought that Mira had a good reputation, which is why I went out of my way to get one. I'll have to see what the other tray is like when it comes in next week. I already rejected one tray from the supplier ( an Iflo one, their own brand) because it was oversized and wouldn't fit into the space available very well. I also didn't like the finish on it, as it was clearly a ragged stone mould with acrylic on top and weiged a ton. I didn't get to see if it was straight or not, perhaps it was!

At least the Mira one is a lot lighter to move and looks like they've designed and made it with some thought....just a pity that their QC dept. didn't adopt the same attitude. You'd think that these trays should be stored flat, but I always see them in BandQ etc., leaning over in racks.
 
have fitted many flights they need correct installation.never had a fault with them. Onsite considerations need to be considered.ie an experienced installer will understand and just get on with the job :D,some jobs are not deemed diy

Hi,
What do you mean by 'correct installation' and 'onsite considerations'? I realise that an 'experienced' installer would just get on with it, I'd be surprised if he didn't, but I don't see how that makes it beyond the realms of DIY?
 
every property is different,if it leaks and causes damage you would want your insurance company to rectify damage.Sorry but any water damage insurance will not be valid unless you tell afecking lie.

get an approved insured installer in,you know it makes sense.

See many diy mares daily :oops:
 
I thought that Mira had a good reputation, which is why I went out of my way to get one.
It's interesting how often a bit of canny marketing can lead people to think something is better than it actually is. Woofter Bodge boilers being a prime example...

If you want real quality, Kudos Showers are great

I already rejected one tray from the supplier ( an Iflo one, their own brand) because it was oversized and wouldn't fit into the space available very well. I also didn't like the finish on it, as it was clearly a ragged stone mould with acrylic on top and weiged a ton. I didn't get to see if it was straight or not, perhaps it was!

At least the Mira one is a lot lighter to move and looks like they've designed and made it with some thought....
Heavy = made of dense material = stronger and less likely to flex or crack. A rough base with smooth acrylic on top will have a better key for the acrylic to hold onto than acrylic formed over a smooth base as well
Light = less strong and more flexible

I know which I prefer
 
As mentioned by muggles :cautious: ^ the tray has to be suitable,again every install is different :idea:

The flight tray is a decent product but needs correct installation :idea:


Edit,the tray needs bonding down.Have done that with decent adhesive compound with several buckets full of water strategically placed on the tray to address any floor curve or product curve.
leave it over night and its the dogs abollocks
 
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@muggles
A heavy tray doesn't mean it's less likely to crack, if fact if it's so dense and less complient, iit could more likely to crack because it has no flex?

I didn't know it but I originally got specced up for a Kudos tray and plinth by City Plumbing, I liked the way it seemed to be built well. But they messed up and confused half the items with Iflo and Mira. I happened to notice that the pictures in the brochures didn't match what I'd been sold in the shop, that's when they suggested their own Iflo items. Didn't know what she was doing or clever selling....?

@OLD and cold
Getting a competent person or a professional in to the job is great, but when you're a family trying to use a bathroom at the same time as rip it up, most tradesmen would not be so....'considerate' let's say. Also, being competent and being a professional is not the same.

I understand the bonding down bit (in fact Mira advocate using silicone to do it, which would be adhering to the MI's but relies a lot on the tray being flat), but it's interesting to see that you mention 'product curve' and how you deal with it, like it's an every day problem. Maybe it is and I will have to deal with it, which is fine. I've had worse. It also suggests that a tray does have some flex in it, or else what would be the use of holding it down with buckets of water. Of course, it depends on how much flex is need to correct the curve, clearly there is a limit.

At the moment, I'm considering using Mira's riser legs, They are designed for use with their trays (they're not just re-badged kitchen unit legs apparently) and as they are adjustable, they could provide an easier way to level out a tray like this. Not my preferred method, I'd rather build a sturdy plinth.
 
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we dont know the measurements of the tray or the floor structure so overnight bonding it down under compression (buckets of water) will set it in position,dont forget you will also be putting doors/an enclosure and some of that weight will be supported on the tray rim. So you will need a rigid fixed base.
Sand & cement base or silicone adhesive needs to set,its important as it avoids movement or just take a chance you may be lucky :cautious:. a professional installer will know what they can get away with and work accordingly.

at the end of the day you want a leak free shower which will be an assert to to your property :!:

Happy plumbing
 
Cheers Old&Cold. It's a 1200 x 760 tray, the current floor is 18mm bathroom chipboard. As I said, my preferred method is a sturdy wooden frame/plinth for the support that you mention. I don't take chances, but do take my time.
 
While I'm waiting for the replacment tray to turn up, I'm pondering over waterproofing. The Deltaboards that I'm using don't need additional tanking (apparently) and the tiles can go straight onto the boards, using a cement based adhesive. I was also advised that I only need to silicone the corners, spread tile adhesive ( with scrim) onto the board joints and a bead of silicone around where the tray meets the boards and it's all good to go.

Is there any need to put additional protection, such as WP1 and poly. tape, on the corners and where the boards / tray meet? Will it stick to the tray surface?

Is there any benefit in putting the tray up against the boards or should the boards go down to the tray? There seems to be a lot of advise either way.
 
I would always use shower seal at least - like aquastrap - this'll maximse the watertighness around the wall/tray threshold seal regardless of the material. Using a waterproof backer board avoids having to tank but waterproof any seams that may be in the wet area. Use a good waterproof adhesive and comb apply, don't butter, that should ensure any water that gets in wont travel. Good waterproof grout too should give a long lasting shower space. Seal the tiles, material dependent.

Board on floor to ceiling > shower tray with seal to wall with or without silicone > tile down to tray > seal again.
 

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