Mist Coat or PVA - Bare Surface Basics

Joe, one question - on a previous post you swore blind that you had to follow the instructions written on a paint can for the use of mist coats, saying that the manufacturers are correct and we should all follow their rules. So why are you now saying that all the paint manufacturers are wrong because the use of matt paint as a mist coat is wrong? That we should now ignore what's written on the can and use PVA instead? I am confused by your constant contradictions, why do you change your mind every time this issue comes up?
By the way, not sure how you can misuse contract matt - it's not rocket science is it? Bit worried you seem to think so. You are the epitome of someone who a little knowledge can be a very bad thing.

Best using a diluted coat of whatever the top coat will be. You can't go wrong then.
So you think the manufacturers offer duff advice? You'd rather listen to some DIYer on a forum? That's why there are so many 'paint peeling' problems on here. Idiots giving out duff advice contrary to the instructions of the manufacturer.
If you won't see sense and listen to the manufacturers then good luck with that one. Manners have nothing to do with it. Got fook all to do with you anyway.
 
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No. What I've always said is that you should follow the instructions on the can for the paint you are using. If the final coat will be contract matt then use contract matt for the mist coat. If the final coat is going to be a vinyl matt then use a vinyl coat as a mist coat. If you want to make your own hybrid paint by adding PVA to contract matt then use that as your top coat. PVA increases the vinyl content of the paint and gives you a very cheap but high quality finish similar to the high end ultra tough paints on the market.
 
So you think the manufacturers offer duff advice? You'd rather listen to some DIYer on a forum? That's why there are so many 'paint peeling' problems on here. Idiots giving out duff advice contrary to the instructions of the manufacturer.

You continue your little science experiments on your own walls at home, and those of us that get paid for carrying out work professionally will follow the PVA manufacturer's instructions that state:

Unibond said:
'PVA should not be overpainted with water based paints'.

I know what your comeback will be but, regardless of whether it is combined into a paint, it still dries to a film that is not suitable to be painted over with water based paints.
 
It depends how you use it. If you turn your wall into a plastic sheet does that sound like a good idea? If you use it to increase the vinyl content of weak paint - then that's a totally different matter. So stop carrying on like a dinosaur or get back to Jurassic Park.
 
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What's the f..ing point of making wall breathable and then putting PVA on ot ?
In this day and age not many would use pva. Only for certain jobs, but not for this purpose.
 
I intend to put some thin laminate/Formica onto a wall that has been partly re-plastered any suggestion on how best to treat the wall prior to putting laminate up.
 
every forum, google search etc turns up results saying a mist coat is absolutely required, yet every professional I've spoken with (currently taking quotes for some paint work), say its not needed but they'll do it if i want. all claim never to have had a call-back in 5/10/25 etc years.

anyone refute this or agree?
 
I intend to put some thin laminate/Formica onto a wall that has been partly re-plastered any suggestion on how best to treat the wall prior to putting laminate up.

You need to post a new thread for this type of enquiry.

every forum, google search etc turns up results saying a mist coat is absolutely required, yet every professional I've spoken with (currently taking quotes for some paint work), say its not needed but they'll do it if i want. all claim never to have had a call-back in 5/10/25 etc years.

anyone refute this or agree?

Mist coats are the basis for longevity of a paint job (emulsion onto porous surfaces).
Whilst you can successfully paint directly onto bare plaster/render without diluting the first coat, you are far more likely to encounter problems further down the line - the first coat may peel when you apply the next coat or, more likely, the next poor soul who decorates gets that problem to deal with as the paint will have become a more solid film by then.

Those saying mist coats are not required are either very lucky, have never been asked back to do a future job, or are telling porkies. For one thing, emulsion is far easier to apply to a porous surface when it is diluted, rather than used neat, so any decorator worth their salt would not only suggest, but recommend, a mist coat. If you develop a problem with a wall (crack, hole, water damage, etc.) this will have to be repaired before redecoration, and a solidly adhered paint film makes life so much simpler.

As with any trade, there are 'Professionals' and 'professionals'. :whistle:;)
 
I intend to put some thin laminate/Formica onto a wall that has been partly re-plastered any suggestion on how best to treat the wall prior to putting laminate up.

You need to post a new thread for this type of enquiry.

every forum, google search etc turns up results saying a mist coat is absolutely required, yet every professional I've spoken with (currently taking quotes for some paint work), say its not needed but they'll do it if i want. all claim never to have had a call-back in 5/10/25 etc years.

anyone refute this or agree?

Mist coats are the basis for longevity of a paint job (emulsion onto porous surfaces).
Whilst you can successfully paint directly onto bare plaster/render without diluting the first coat, you are far more likely to encounter problems further down the line - the first coat may peel when you apply the next coat or, more likely, the next poor soul who decorates gets that problem to deal with as the paint will have become a more solid film by then.

Those saying mist coats are not required are either very lucky, have never been asked back to do a future job, or are telling porkies. For one thing, emulsion is far easier to apply to a porous surface when it is diluted, rather than used neat, so any decorator worth their salt would not only suggest, but recommend, a mist coat. If you develop a problem with a wall (crack, hole, water damage, etc.) this will have to be repaired before redecoration, and a solidly adhered paint film makes life so much simpler.

As with any trade, there are 'Professionals' and 'professionals'. :whistle:;)

the chap i've gone with is adamant its not needed - although i've asked him to do it anyway for peace of mind. Found him on MyBuilder and he has 100 of brilliant reviews.
 
That's nothing, I could write myself a thousand if I had nothing better to do.
 
Sadly it's true.. we moved to a new area and needed plasterers for the new house. Used 4 different plasterers from mybuilder, or of that ilk and all of them had various degrees of being 'not good' at their trade. :( Word of mouth is much better if able, unlike us in a new area.
 

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