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Mixture of solid & veneered wood
- Thread starter datadiyer
- Start date
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Hi Datadiyer..
For the best results you should definately be looking to use an mdf veneered board. Consitant and stunning when finished. The staves are good but look like lots of skinny parts glued together and 'will' still move. American white oak purchased from any supplier will be the same just like buying dulux magnolia from anywhere. The cut makes the difference and 9 times out of 10 'crown cut' will be used as its a more economic cut from the logs..
For the best results you should definately be looking to use an mdf veneered board. Consitant and stunning when finished. The staves are good but look like lots of skinny parts glued together and 'will' still move. American white oak purchased from any supplier will be the same just like buying dulux magnolia from anywhere. The cut makes the difference and 9 times out of 10 'crown cut' will be used as its a more economic cut from the logs..
Norcon it looks like dovetails or comb joints on my screen. On closer look it's probably aliasing on the drawing.
As far as definitely using veneered board goes as diyalcovecabinets1 says that's always going to be a matter of opinion. As I said before I think it gives a rather "manufactured" look which you (the OP) may or may not like. I also think it looks better with close grained pale woods like maple. Again just my opinion.
Veneered panels have their own problems too. Lipping as I said before, also the veneer is extremely thin and you have to be very careful handling the boards when working. You also need the room and the kit to break the boards down to the sizes you require.
You may find that if you like the look of veneered furniture you can buy ready made pieces for a fraction of the cost and trouble.
Solid wood with hand done details looks better (again IMO) is fairly easy to work with hand tools, and as long as you follow the "rules" of construction when designing, shouldn't really give any problems in service.
A lot depends on what the rest of the room interior is like, what you actually want, and also of course what you are capable of designing and actually making. Personally I don't think you can beat solid wood, but that's me. Ask different woodworkers who work in different ways, and you are bound to get different answers.
As far as definitely using veneered board goes as diyalcovecabinets1 says that's always going to be a matter of opinion. As I said before I think it gives a rather "manufactured" look which you (the OP) may or may not like. I also think it looks better with close grained pale woods like maple. Again just my opinion.
Veneered panels have their own problems too. Lipping as I said before, also the veneer is extremely thin and you have to be very careful handling the boards when working. You also need the room and the kit to break the boards down to the sizes you require.
You may find that if you like the look of veneered furniture you can buy ready made pieces for a fraction of the cost and trouble.
Solid wood with hand done details looks better (again IMO) is fairly easy to work with hand tools, and as long as you follow the "rules" of construction when designing, shouldn't really give any problems in service.
A lot depends on what the rest of the room interior is like, what you actually want, and also of course what you are capable of designing and actually making. Personally I don't think you can beat solid wood, but that's me. Ask different woodworkers who work in different ways, and you are bound to get different answers.
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Hi Guys,
I am so grateful for all your input on this (didn't realise so many people had so many personal preferences with construction) but i've decided at last (i'm not good at making decisions). Im gonna play it safe and go the MDF veneered route. I've had a few samples from Formica and they look the business (classic walnut particularly). Just need to decide where to get the veneered boards from now. There's a company near me who will provide the veneered cuts, but they only use 18mm MDF. I think i'd like to beef it up a bit and go for 22mm. I just have to take the cutting list to them and they'll give me a price. Should work out much cheaper than solid anyway. If I used solid, I would be gutted if I saw my (work of art, lol) warp after a few months in front of my very eyes. Hope to start this in the next 2 weeks. I have my sons high sleeper bed to make first (that's another story!). I'll post pics as I go along (only if I do a decent job mind)
Cheers guys,
Data.
I am so grateful for all your input on this (didn't realise so many people had so many personal preferences with construction) but i've decided at last (i'm not good at making decisions). Im gonna play it safe and go the MDF veneered route. I've had a few samples from Formica and they look the business (classic walnut particularly). Just need to decide where to get the veneered boards from now. There's a company near me who will provide the veneered cuts, but they only use 18mm MDF. I think i'd like to beef it up a bit and go for 22mm. I just have to take the cutting list to them and they'll give me a price. Should work out much cheaper than solid anyway. If I used solid, I would be gutted if I saw my (work of art, lol) warp after a few months in front of my very eyes. Hope to start this in the next 2 weeks. I have my sons high sleeper bed to make first (that's another story!). I'll post pics as I go along (only if I do a decent job mind)
Cheers guys,
Data.
I agree with Dave the skill level for for veneered work is very high,especially cleaning up lipping,including plane sharpening and setting to a high standard the use of a scraper and the ability to sharpen it properly with the right amount of burr for the job,going through the veneer is a total heart breaker,wev'e all been there,also any glue left on the veneer will show up like hell when the finish goes on,machining the MDF veneered boards will have it's own draw back's; including the ability to cut cross grain without breakout and extra costs for equipment, a good quality board saw with fine blade and biscuit jointer for starters,The solid wood option would need a minimal investment in hand tools and would be a very forgiving medium for a first time woodworker and the job would have some real class on completion.
Hi Harbourwoodwork,
Yes I agree with the work involved with veneer. But as there's a company close to me who will veneer everything to my cutting list, an amateur like me wouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not even sure if they will provide the cuts of MDF also, although like I mentioned, they only use high quality 18mm MDF, I think i'd prefer 22mm to beef it up a bit.
Cheers,
Data.
Yes I agree with the work involved with veneer. But as there's a company close to me who will veneer everything to my cutting list, an amateur like me wouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not even sure if they will provide the cuts of MDF also, although like I mentioned, they only use high quality 18mm MDF, I think i'd prefer 22mm to beef it up a bit.
Cheers,
Data.
D
Deleted member 174758
Why stop at 22mm/ 25mm is readily available and looks much better on uprights IMHO. BTW have you decided on how you are going to lip the boards, or are you going to have the veneerer pre-lip in matching hardwood then over veneer (which will look closest to solid wood)?
Hi J&K,
Yes, the company will do the lipping in matching solid wood which would make it look even better. Yes, I agree, why stop at 22mm, I will defo think about 25mm MDF. I wouldnt' have thought it would be much more expensive than 22mm.
Cheers,
Data.
Yes, the company will do the lipping in matching solid wood which would make it look even better. Yes, I agree, why stop at 22mm, I will defo think about 25mm MDF. I wouldnt' have thought it would be much more expensive than 22mm.
Cheers,
Data.
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