Who cares, the MK switches will have to be to BS 1363 to be used on the 'primary' circuit of the ring main anyway. Does anyone know if they are?
MK Logic Plus Grid - Alternatives
- Thread starter ldoodle
- Start date
Sponsored Links
We 'had' this recently.
It's not the rating which is in question but the fact that 20A DP switches are actually NOT BS1363.
I think the conclusion was we wouldn't worry too much if fitted but technically ...?
Was not BAS's point that the switches in accessories (e.g. sockets) which undeniably are to BS1363 are probably usually rated at <32A, yet we happily use them in situations in which they are only 'protected' by a 32A OPD (not the least because of the presence of downstream fuses). I suppose that wouldn't matter to those who believe that the OPD is there only to protect cables (and hence that accessories do not require any 'protection'?)!
Kind Regards, John
Sponsored Links
Well yes, but that's a different matter, I think, in that it is only the actual terminals which have to cope with the current up to the OPD rating but even then the full current wouldn't actually flow through the terminals.
I was pointing out that 20A DP switches are not BS1363 and so (in a recent thread it was argued that) they are/may/would not be allowed on a ring circuit but would be on a similar radial.
Because of the above, that may be true.
Indeed. In fact, virtually none of the 'ring' current should flow 'through the terminals' - only that going to the loads plugged into the socket.
Yes, I suppose that is true. I actually suspect that, rather than restricting accessories on a ring final to BS1363 ones (which, with its wording, it effectively does), the actual intent of 433.1.103 may have been to 'dispensate' the use of BS1363 accessories (probably rated at 13/20A) on a '30/32A circuit'. However, if that was the intent, they got the wording all wrong!
Kind Regards, John
Indeed - but unnecessary as that would equally apply on a 32A radial.
However, it is quite clear - "BS1363 accessories may be supplied through a ring final circuit ..." - and 433.1.103 is about the CCC of the wiring.
More puzzling is why the 20A switches are not to BS1363 and what difference that entails compared with an FCU which is.
You say 'quite clear', but it doesn't actually say "only BS1363 acessories" - hence my previous comment.
I suppose that's simply because standalone switches are outside of the scope of BS1363. Again, I suspect that the 'fault' is with the wording of 433.1.103 in that it was not written to include them, even though they are subject to a different standard from BS1363. Maybe the person who wrote it didn't even know that they were outside of the scope of BS1363
Kind Regards, John
Just thinking out loud... can you use something like this http://www.electricpoint.com/switch...gle-shopping&gclid=CPzWqYv__LYCFYXItAodWV8ACA above counter, with each switch leading to a separate unswitched FCU under counter.
At least that way I'd get 2 switches in one faceplate and no visible fuses.
I guess the current oven is on a 30amp MCB so would need to change it for a 20amp MCB unless I used a 45amp DP switch and cooker connection unit.
At least that way I'd get 2 switches in one faceplate and no visible fuses.
I guess the current oven is on a 30amp MCB so would need to change it for a 20amp MCB unless I used a 45amp DP switch and cooker connection unit.
If you use Double Pole switches like that then yes.
I think you may have to use a grid type.
The link says they are 'two-way' - not DP - so not really suitable.
I think you may have to use a grid type.
The link says they are 'two-way' - not DP - so not really suitable.
As EFLI has said, the one's you linked to are not suitable, because they are not double-pole. If you can find 2-gang double-pole switches, then you could use them as you describe - but, again as EFLI has said, I think you might struggle to find them, except as grid switches.
If there's space behind the appliances, you might just as well use the appliance's plug and an unswitched single socket, rather than an FCU. However, as I think you realise, whilst you seem to regard hiding the fuse (whether in FCU or plug) behind the appliance as a 'plus' point, a good few people would probably regard it as a 'minus' one!
Kind Regards, John
Of course, what an eejit; could use a 2 gang grid. Was so concentrated on having a big single grid setup, it completely skipped my thoughts to scale it down to many 2/3/4 gang setups.
Having looked at some decent quality images of the MK stuff, I'm coming round to the design.
Who's the best stockist in SE for MK stuff. I'd like the data modules as well.
This is my order from TLC, which seems expensive for some of the unit prices seeing as their ex VAT. Certainly the dimmers; £145 ex VAT for 5 1 gangs against Screwfix's £130 inc VAT for 4 1 gangs and 1 2 gang!
Also, I see MK do various FCUs... some with flex outlets and others without. I'd like the ones without as don't need them in the FCU itself.
View media item 60895
Who's the best stockist in SE for MK stuff. I'd like the data modules as well.
This is my order from TLC, which seems expensive for some of the unit prices seeing as their ex VAT. Certainly the dimmers; £145 ex VAT for 5 1 gangs against Screwfix's £130 inc VAT for 4 1 gangs and 1 2 gang!
Also, I see MK do various FCUs... some with flex outlets and others without. I'd like the ones without as don't need them in the FCU itself.
View media item 60895
Is there a restriction on where the grid/FCUs can go.
Having a rethink about the overall design of the kitchen as the previous one didn't leave much worktop.
Now, where the fridge is going is currently a door into the kitchen, which we're filling and putting elsewhere, so it's ideal to put a grid or bank of FCUs as it'll be a stud wall so no excessive chasing required.
Only concern is height of fridge is 1955mm.
View media item 61143
Having a rethink about the overall design of the kitchen as the previous one didn't leave much worktop.
Now, where the fridge is going is currently a door into the kitchen, which we're filling and putting elsewhere, so it's ideal to put a grid or bank of FCUs as it'll be a stud wall so no excessive chasing required.
Only concern is height of fridge is 1955mm.
View media item 61143
No more than for any other item.
Can't see why anyone would want the useless things anyway.
They cost a fortune, add a significant number of additional connections to invite failure, when installed on a ring the entire load is concentrated at a single point, and in most installations they will never be used.
Their only real use is so that people can accidentally turn off the fridge or freezer, destroying all of the items contained within.
If smoke and flames billowed from your fridge or any other appliance while someone was in the kitchen, no one will be climbing up to a high shelf and carefully examining a rack of switches in order to determine what should be switched off.
Even if the switches were on plain view at a sensible height, the result would either be the whole lot being mashed into the off position, or more likely those involved leaving the kitchen and possibly switching off at the consumer unit.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
