Mortar Joint Thickness too big

[JoshRogan]

Hi

Doing some block work for garage and just need to bring the level up on the first few courses of my garage, however the mortar gap seems like its going to be getting too thick at one end, varying from 40-60mm.

A neighbour suggested that this is too thick (60mm) for mortar to take weight and it may crush, suggesting that I ought to use slithers of block or brick in the mortar so that I dont end up with a thick mortar joint on its own.

Any suggestions or advice? He also suggested possibly using firebrick type block which are not too thick.

Cheers

C.

 

[noseall]

there is no problem as to the strength of the joint, after all, tall brick buildings don't crush the lower mortar courses.

the problem is practicality. the mortar is likely to slump, or if the blocks or bricks are wet, impossible.

if the wall is not thermally liable, then you could trim down some london commons, which with their deep frog will easily cut.

if thermal protection is enforceable then you are better off trimming the top course of blocks as to allow a full course of 'light weight or airated coursing bricks' all the way through.

 

[Nige F]

You always have a big joint @ Christmas

 

[JoshRogan]

If I had a big joint at Christmas I would most certainly missed New Year - though it could explain why my levels are out!!

NoseAll - thanks, I am slightly surprised with the answer - I assumed that because most mortar joints are 10/20mm that a 60mm horizontal joint may cause problems. Your right with the practicality though, they take a bit of careful mortar mixing and laying!

Does anyone else either agree or disagree with NoseAll answer (apologies NA, but always good to get a few answers!).

Cheers again.

 

[JoshRogan]

oh, I forgot to ask what you ment by being Thermally Liable - at first I thought it was to do with the effects of heat/sun on the wall and expansion, is that along the right line?

C.

 

[Thermo]

i would go with the cut down commons. Get it level at the bottom and everything else on top should follow suit and look better.

 

[NS215]

just how many course of pig were in it when you started
best to get it level on the first course either by using brick to brick on edge etc or cutting the first course of block down and getting it level from the off as suggested if nothing else it will be very unpleasing on the eye with them joints thats nearly a full brick

 

[JoshRogan]

Oops - sorry for the wrong terminology there too, I of course meant Mortar Bed Thickness, and not joint thickness - thats beginners for you!

Cheers for all the feedback.

 

[^woody^]

60mm is too thick for normal mortar - possible stability issues as the whole load is on a soft joint at the bottom of the wall. And any movement will occur in this single joint and not the wall as a whole

Why does it need to be level in only two courses? If possible I would pick it up gradually over the height.

Or level the bottom with a mix of screed sand/cement before building higher (with expanded metal in it for crack prevention). Or bed some roof or quary tiles in the thick joint to lessen area of mortar

 

[noseall]

i thought you were trying to level the top courses up, sorry just quickly scanned through the o.p.

do as woody says and loose it in a few courses.