Most efficient heating for village hall

Efficiency of an electric heater is a ratio of the heat up time to the run time. So if a heater needs to be on one hour before the hall is used and it is used for one hour then it is 50% efficient.

The radiant heater often used in churches would seem the most efficient, but it has a huge problem, as soon as it is turned off, the occupants feel cold, so the only way to control is to have multi-bars and switch between one or four bars to adjust heat output. even then it has a problem, normal thermostats are useless, they measure air temperature, and the radiant heater does not heat the air, like the sun it heats directly on the body, it will in the end heat the air by warming every item in its path which in turn heats the air. So in the main the radiant heater needs a manual control. But for less than one hour still likely the best option.

Once we leave radiant heater we then must look at the mass of the heater, the less heat the heater absorbs the more heat goes into the hall, the fan heater must be the best, with the storage radiator or maybe under floor heating the worst.

Although fan heaters work well, they do produce noise, I know with the camera club we left one venue because when the heating cut in those at the back could not hear the speaker, so it may need a PA system if using fan heaters.

Next is down to if permanent seats or not, tube heaters under the seats in churches works well, again the occupants feel the heat before the room has got warm, light panel heaters tend to emit so radiant heat, but here safety is a problem. Often radiators need covering with boxes to allow heat to get out with convection but occupants can't touch the hot parts, so any heat from radiation is converted to convection so the part radiation idea is lost.

So question one is if noise of fan heaters is a problem or not? If not than likely the best.

One option is a combination of radiant heaters and other heating, the radiant heaters being on a timer which switches them off after first 1/2 hour by which time the other heaters take over.

How well the hall retains heat is another consideration, with a well insulated hall you can consider back ground heat which is boosted when in use, the church we now use with the camera club uses this idea, as we arrive the PIR's boost the heat, at around 8 pm back ground heat is reduced to anti-frost, I am not sure when the heat increases again, but if occupied then does not matter, with church halls the verger will often put the heating on before an event, with the village hall not so easy, if the back ground temperature went from frost to say 12°C at 10 am that would likely cover most use. PIR's lift it to 18°C when occupants arrive, with only 6°C to raise this will not take long, with no back ground heat raising from 4°C (anti-frost) to 18°C a raise of 14°C it is a problem, users need to have some one switch it up an hour before the event.

There is clearly a difference between a hall used for 30 hours a week to one used 5 hours per week even if the events are the same time. Also between a hall only used in the evening to one used during the day.

I am sure with enough solar panels and wind generators the hall could be heated for free, but the installation cost would be silly, so some compromise is called for.
 
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Why are the existing heaters being replaced?
What is the annual electricity bill?
 
Why are the existing heaters being replaced?
What is the annual electricity bill?

This is a good point, and as Eric says above. Electric heating is never going to be that efficent. I am not sure of the electric bills, but the chap I am dealing with on the committee is saying "look at the meter when the heating is on, it's spinning so fast, we need to do something". Then I cant see that being much better with another electric heater. At least I suppose a modern panel heater may heat the room quicker than tubular heaters?
 
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This is a good point, and as Eric says above. Electric heating is never going to be that efficent.
I presume you're talking about 'cost efficiency'? In terms of 'actual' efficiency, almost any form of electrical heating will turn 100% of the electrical energy into heat within the room it is in (except for those that produce a very small amount of light as well) - all that varies is the speed of heating up and the distribution of heat within the room.

Kind Regards, John
 
the chap I am dealing with on the committee is saying "look at the meter when the heating is on, it's spinning so fast, we need to do something".

You need to be honest with him that there really isn't much they can do.
I'd look first at draughtproofing and then insulation.
Heat pumps are interesting as a thought experiment but probably not economic, unless maybe there is some grant they can get for capital expenditure.
 
Have you considered infra red or wall mounted halogen heaters. Quick heat up, no heat loss heating up the air - not very pretty, but hey, it's a scout hut.
 
I've done a couple of jobs installing infrared heaters. I've also done a couple of jobs removing infrared heaters and fitting proper heaters.

They're great in theory but in reality they just don't work properly and people still feel cold.

Inverter air con works well and is super efficient for electricity usage but the initial costs are often prohibitive.

I've found oil or water filled rads to be the best compromise if heating a space if only electricity is available.
 
the "hall" I'm associated with has 13" brick walls and a vaulted roof. Best thing we did was insulate and dry-line it throughout. Losing a few inches all round doesn't matter in a large room. It would have been pretty well impossible to deliver enough heat otherwise. I did once calculate heat loss per m2 at 20C difference and the figure was ludicrous.

Hence my first question.
 

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