Moving a Plug Socket Question?

[AdrianB]

Due to the position of a radiator I would like to move a plug socket about 1- 1.5 metres to the side of its current position. The wall is a lath and plaster and any advice on how to do this, before I begin would be appreciated. I can’t seem to find anything on the search in relation.

I understand it’s an easy job but would be good to get advice from people with the knowledge to avoid making well known mistakes.

 

[plugwash]

how easy it is depends on where the cables are going. Hidden junction boxes are not allowed and even if you use a method of joining that is allowed to be hidden you still have the problem that with the socket gone the existing cables will most likely no longer be in allowed routes (horizontal and vertical from a fitting are allowed along with a few other places)

it may well turn out to be easier to replace one socket with two than to simply do a move if the cables come from different directions.

also be carefull when actually cutting the hole, its very easy to accidently break away the laths from lath and plaster when trying to cut out socket holes leaving nothing for the dryline box to grip.

 

[AdrianB]

Hidden junction boxes not being allowed will cause a problem as that’s how I was planning on extending the cable. I’m not sure which direction the cable comes from but I believe it comes from the opposite direction to the where I was planning on putting the new plug.

Maybe it won’t be an easy job then! Which methods of joining cables are allowed?

 

[davy_owen_88]

Why don't you just fit a blanking plate over the original socket then the junction box will be accessible?

Failing that, a crimp joint is classed as permanent therefore does not need to be accessible. (use ratchet crimper's and suitable sized crimps (red for earth and blue for phase and neutral).

 

[AdrianB]

I could do either but I suppose the crimping option is considered the more proffesional so maybe I'll do that, thanks for the advise.

Will this be ok :

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html

With these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashY.html

Also which size/type of cable should I use?

 

[davy_owen_88]

That crimper is fine. For 2.5mm² twin and earth (what you most probably have currently) use these for the earth conductor and these for phase and neutral conductors. Remember to sleeve the bare earth conductor with this.

 

[mo2]

how easy it is depends on where the cables are going. Hidden junction boxes are not allowed and even if you use a method of joining that is allowed to be hidden you still have the problem that with the socket gone the existing cables will most likely no longer be in allowed routes (horizontal and vertical from a fitting are allowed along with a few other places)

Don't forget that. The cable has to be inline with an accessory for it to be in a safe zone.

 

[AdrianB]

I want to make sure I get the cable in a safe zone, if I take up the floor board the run it under the floor board will it be in a safe zone? Or if I leave the old plug with a blanking plate and fit the new one 1.5 metres to left of the new one would this be classed as parallel with an accessory and therefore in a safe zone?

 

[didthathurt]

I cribbed this from another post - credit to RF
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/safezones.jpg

If you are going to run the cable under floorboards you are, possibly, into different territory depending on whether or not you have to cross joists - a move to one side of over 400mm will meet a joist unless you are running parallel to them - for which there are specific requirements as to the location of holes and notches and cable protection.

Holes must be max diameter .25 of the depth of the joist and placed on the centre line of the joist between 0.25 and ,.4 of the joist span and adjacent holes must be at least 3 diameters apart. Notches of max depth 0.125 of the joist depth are allowed on the top of a joist between 0.07 and 0.25 of the span. Also, cables less than 50mm below the floor surface and less than 50mmm from the ceiling surface below, if applicable, must be armoured or in earthed steel conduit.

Don't forget, though, keeping the cable to the original socket in a safe zone is as important as running the new cable in a safe zone.

Seems a lot just to move a socket, I know.

 

[stevesey]

No one has suggested leaving the old socket in place and simple running the new on as a spur (effectively using the old socket as a JB).

 

[AdrianB]

Its a bit confusing making sure I comply with all the regulations!

Thanks for the idea stevesey how would I go about running the new one on a a spur? And sorry but what does using the old socket as a JB mean?

 

[davy_owen_88]

There isn't really many regulations to comply with. Just make sure whatever connections you make are accessible (unless they are permanent i.e crimps) and make sure the cables are run in the safe zones.

He meant that by running a spur you just use the terminals in the old socket as a JB. To run a spur you just connect a new length of cable from the terminals in the current socket and run it to the new socket. You can only do this if the socket you are spurring from is not already a spur.