Moving a wall socket - best way to fill the void?

[gregbbb]

Hi all

OK, I've been reading up on this issue using this site and there's just 1 question I have unanswered....

I've got a double wall socket on a mains ring which needs to be moved horizontally by about 10cm. The move is needed as I will be fixing some bookcases to the wall and the current position of the socket is in the way.

The wall is of plasterboard type. I plan to cut a new hole for the new mounting box and hopefully the wires will have enough slack to not have to cut/crimp so it will be a straight relocation.

Now, what is the best way to fill the void left by the old socket? Should I leave the old mounting box in there or remove it and re-use it? What is the best substance to use to fill the hole?

Cheers!

 

[securespark]

If it is a hollow wall, use the cut-out for the new socket to fill the old. Fix a piece of 2x1 across the hole of the old socket with 2 screws either side, then screw the plasterboard to that & fill.

If brick behind the board, fill with plaster.

 

[FredFlintstone]

You could use a blanking plate but I guess this would still get in the way of your bookcase. That'd be the easiest option.

Other options:

Cut wall back to studs either side (leaving half the width of the stud showing each side). Fix noggins in place. Cut plasterboard to fit hole and screw into studs and noggins. PVA surrounding area. Skim board and blend in to surrounding area.

However, the hole is small so you could get away with the following:

Cut plasterboard an inch bigger than hole in all directions. Punch small hole in centre. Feed string through hole and tie at the back - preferably tie a stick or something behind. Feed board through hole at such an agle that it will pass through opening. Use drywall adhesive (or no more nails works just as well for small patches) around the front edges of the cut board (whether you do this before or after inserting board through hole is up to you and depends on access). Line board up and pull forwards using string so adhesive sticks board to inside of hole. Get a nice big stick that extends eitherside of hole. Wind string around nice big stick and wind stick in so it is tight against the wall. Leave overnight to dry then cut string. PVA and apply bonding / browning to fill recess to 2mm below wall surface. Skim.

Or the bodge:

Stuff scrunched up newspaper into hole all around the edges in the recess. PVA surrounding area. Apply bonding / browning into hold to 2mm below existing surface. Skim.

Personally I'd got for the board and string option.

Good luck.

 

[gregbbb]

Excellent! 2 very good ideas! Thanks guys.

I'll see what I'm in for when I remove the old socket and take it from there.

I haven't got any plasterboard to hand so I may not be able to use your board and string option FredFlinstone, unless I can use chipboard in place of the plasterboard. Would this be ok if it was keyed with a PVA bonding sealer?

So besides the issue of filling the void left by the old socket - I shouldn't have any problems electrically?

 

[securespark]

I haven't got any plasterboard to hand

So what happened to the piece you cut out where the new socket is going?

 

[gregbbb]

I haven't got any plasterboard to hand

So what happened to the piece you cut out where the new socket is going?

I've got that but it wont be big enough for the board and string option (unless I rotate it 90 degrees). It will be fine for your solution securespark.

Anyway, I've since found that the wires for this socket are fixed pretty solidly all the way down the wall from the socket to under the floor. No way to move them.

As the bookcases will cover only half of the socket I think I will replace the double socket with a single socket and use one half of the hole with the other half covered. That way I don't have to dig out all the cables.

 

[securespark]

If your backl box is a fastfix type (drylining box), then you will need a piece of board for the r/h lug to grip onto....

 

[Steve]

He could turn it on its side and have a wonky socket . . .

 

[gregbbb]

If your backl box is a fastfix type (drylining box), then you will need a piece of board for the r/h lug to grip onto....

Good point.

 

[gregbbb]

He could turn it on its side and have a wonky socket . . .

Thats what my dads suggestions was. Old skool eh?

 

[gregbbb]

The mounting box was screwed into a breeze block behind the plasterboard.

I replaced the double socket with a single socket on the left hand side and filled the right hand side. Everything fits perfect now.

Thanks for all the suggestions and advice.