Wall socket moved, is it ok to plaster?

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No that'll make it worse. They normally go into the lug about half a turn before binding up solid.

Running an M3.5 tap through the lug is all you need to do.
 
Personally I'd rather see a screwed joint behind a blank plate than an MF joint shoved under a floor.
I suppose I would as well, given my feelings about MF joints - but I suppose that has to be traded off against one's feelings abut the aesthetics of the additional blank plate. However, if the OP were fairly lucky, there would be enough slack in the cables not to require any joints - I did say "(extending the cables with MF JBs if really necessary).

I'm actually a little confused about what has been done, and why. If it is possible and acceptable to have a (visible) blank plate next to the socket, why couldn't the socket have been left there in the first place? If the situation is that a single blank plate is acceptable, but a double-sized plate/socket wouldn't be (in relation to what is to be done to the wall/room), then the old double box could have been replaced with a single one, with a single socket (more useful than a blank plate!) and then the new double socket spurred off that.

Kind Regards, John
 
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The old double socket was half behind a brick fireplace so only one socket was accessible. So I wanted the double socket moved out from behind the fireplace. I am planning to replace the brick in the fireplace. The blank plate was just a way for me to fix the problem myself. But as there are other issues here I will get the new electrician to run cables under the floorboards. Then I can plaster over the old box and replace the brick.

Thanks for all of the advice, btw.
 
4 B.A. has an outer diameter of 3.6 mm, and uses a tapping drill of 3.0 mm. Threads per mm is 1.514.
3.5 mm has a tapping drill size of 2.9 mm, 0.6 threads per mm.
So slightly smaller, hence my idea about nipping it.


So the diameter is similar but the thread pitch will screw you up (sorry).
A rethreader would be best, but I bet a stainless steel screw would self-tap its way through a mm or so of mild steel... :LOL:
 

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