Sorry, but I'm trade and TBH life is just too short (I also stopped sharpening my own hand saws more than 30 years back when I finally went hardpoint). And that's a lot of effort for a £2 or £3 blade, unless you're from Yorkshire! Couldn't see any reference to tooth set in the video, either. If you hit anything hard in a cut your blade will probably get the tooth geometry drastically altered so when you resharpen you may need to reset the teeth. Just how do you manage that with teeth so small?
Where the blades are induction hardened you are on a hiding to nothing in any case (files just skate on them), and good luck getting a suitable file for the Japanese tooth blades I favour for precision cuts.
As to cutting skirting, I tend to use bimetallic blades for anything that might have metal in it, you know like the nails, pins, etc that are used to fix skirtings and mouldings in place, because they tend to wreck carbon steel blades (I.e rip or abrade the teeth off leaving you with a useless piece of tin that has a fancy connector at one end but which can be reg round as a very useful scraper blade)
I'd tend to agree although if you end up needing a new blade at 16:10 on a Sunday it's worth knowing - my old blades end up either as scrapers or I take a grinder to them to give them coarse teeth for cutting plasterboard etc.