My House Rewire (Current progress and some questions!)

securespark said:
Wouldn't use Type C in domestic..........

This was also mentioned in the part p course

Your not supposed to use a type C rated CB in a domestic dwelling unless its extraordinary circumstances.
 
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Do I have to provide a separate circuit for my boiler? Which hasn't been fitted yet (I had electric heaters before) or can I spur off the kitchen ring?


--- you can put it on its own non-RCD radial. and if you want a stat you could out in the 3C+E for that


Also are there any safety tests I can perform before the council comes round to check?!? :confused:

--- not unless you own an insulation tester, RCD tester and ELI...

I did not realise the difference between B and C type MCB's! I just went in the shop and the guy gave me a B. incidentally are there any A type?

--- A isnt used much. most common is B. C&D are used for stuff with higher input. i.e large motor/transformer. C can also be used on lights to get around nuisence trippin


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M1K3 said:
securespark said:
Wouldn't use Type C in domestic..........

This was also mentioned in the part p course

Your not supposed to use a type C rated CB in a domestic dwelling unless its extraordinary circumstances.

problem is, if the circuit is gonna trip everytime a bulb goes, then surely that circuit is not designed properly, and should have a type C
 
andrew2022 said:
M1K3 said:
securespark said:
Wouldn't use Type C in domestic..........

This was also mentioned in the part p course

Your not supposed to use a type C rated CB in a domestic dwelling unless its extraordinary circumstances.

problem is, if the circuit is gonna trip everytime a bulb goes, then surely that circuit is not designed properly, and should have a type C

But the circuit is designed properly, its the bulbs that are badly designed. Manufacturers know their products are going to be used on a 6 amp MCB or 3 amp fuse, and so should design their products as such in order to eliminate nuisance tripping.
 
plugwash said:
btw sometimes bulbs blowing can cause a huge surge of current. I had one in my inspection lamp take out a B16 (loft socket cuircuit) recently.

What was in your 13amp plug top fuse compartment then? - was it a case of "loss of discrimination" on a supply circuit? :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Perhaps there was a latent defect in the circuit or it's design?
 
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dunno i presume its a 3A one but it didn't blow so i had no reason to open up the plug to check.
 
If you are deffo in Zone 3 with the switch, it can be left wall-mounted, no probs.
It will comply with 7671.

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crafty said:
But the circuit is designed properly, its the bulbs that are badly designed. Manufacturers know their products are going to be used on a 6 amp MCB or 3 amp fuse, and so should design their products as such in order to eliminate nuisance tripping.

Can you see me about to don my Osram hat?

Here goes:

Buy Osram lamps - the GLS range are double fused so that their internal fuses blow before the circuit protective device.

GE GLS lamps have Ballotini fuses also.
 
lorraine said:
Bathroom Switch - I would like to leave this as if I take it out it will leave a massive hole in the wall and I can't get matching tiles from anywhere but I was aware that most bahtrooms had pull cords but was not sure if this was due to zonal arrangements or not.
Normal wall switches are allowed in Zone 3 or beyond.

Downstairs sockets are on an RCD, I am going to buy a cooker switch with no socket on for the cooker circuit as this won't be on the rcd side of my consumer unit.
You can have a socket it you want, as long as the socket is not intended, or could reasonably be expected, to supply portable equipment for use outdoors,

Do I have to provide a separate circuit for my boiler? Which hasn't been fitted yet (I had electric heaters before) or can I spur off the kitchen ring?
You can spur.

Also are there any safety tests I can perform before the council comes round to check?!? :confused:
Not without proper test equipment, apart from gross L/N/E faults with a multimeter

I did not realise the difference between B and C type MCB's! I just went in the shop and the guy gave me a B. incidentally are there any A type?
MCB Types: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=76467#76467



[this is what comes of starting a reply one day, and posting it the next....]
 
Fit a "Pull cord" switch, and fit a blanking plate in place of the existing wall switch, it's a lot cheaper than a revisit from the council
Measure it. It's either in Zone 2 or it isn't.
 
M1K3 said:
securespark said:
Wouldn't use Type C in domestic..........

This was also mentioned in the part p course

Your not supposed to use a type C rated CB in a domestic dwelling unless its extraordinary circumstances.
You should ask for your money back - they didn't teach you properly.

Did they just come out with this pronouncement, or was it in the context of a discussion of MCB time/current curves, disconnection time requirements, touch voltages, fault loop impedances, load characteristics...

As I said above, there's nothing that says that Type Cs are or are not, "intended" for domestic use, and there's nothing which says they are or are not suitable, per se.

They are a protective device with certain characteristics, and if they are more appropriate than another type, and can meet disconnection times, it behoves you as designer to use them.
 
crafty1289 said:
But the circuit is designed properly, its the bulbs that are badly designed. Manufacturers know their products are going to be used on a 6 amp MCB or 3 amp fuse, and so should design their products as such in order to eliminate nuisance tripping.
And if you know that they do not, you deliberately design something inappropriate, do you, and shrug your shoulders saying "it's not my fault the MCB trips - the bulb manufacturers should make better products."?
 
plugwash said:
dunno i presume its a 3A one but it didn't blow so i had no reason to open up the plug to check.
Shouldn't "presume".

A 13A BS1361 and a B16 will not discriminate.
 
Hi Everyone

Thanks for all the replies.

I have now rewired down to my ground floor and have put the chases in for the sockets but have a case of wood worm so I'm waiting till the weekend to replace the floorboards and joists with new ones.

I shall put the boiler onto a FCU but I was a bit worried that as the kitchen ring was on an RCD, that the combination of electrics and water in my boiler would result in some earth leakage and cause a trip.

Also while I'm atit is it permissable to cross cables? I am putting in 10mm cable for my cooker but this will come down the wall vertically. The easieist route for my kitchen ring is horizontally around the room and I was wondering if it was okay to cross the two at an accessory point or not? My which book of wiring doesn't say one way or the other :(

Thanks in Advance

Lorraine.
 
lorraine said:
I shall put the boiler onto a FCU but I was a bit worried that as the kitchen ring was on an RCD, that the combination of electrics and water in my boiler would result in some earth leakage and cause a trip.
The boiler should only cause the RCD to trip if the boiler developes a fault.
Also while I'm atit is it permissable to cross cables? I am putting in 10mm cable for my cooker but this will come down the wall vertically. The easieist route for my kitchen ring is horizontally around the room and I was wondering if it was okay to cross the two at an accessory point or not?
As long at the cables are run in prescribed areas which it sounds like they are, there is no problem.
 
HI everyone

Thanks for the reply spark123. The plumber came today and I specifically asked for a worcestor bosch boiler as we had that in my previous house and it was reliable!

He wasn't particularly familiar with electrics and said "last time we used a socket for the fused spur". I thought what a plonker, your a professional plumber, you should have a vauge understanding of what an RCD is?

happy sparking :D

Lorraine
 

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