need tips for fitting skirting board

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Scribe internal corners and mitre external corners.

I know its bit of an old thread but I'm interested in why you would not mitre internal and external corners as it looks much neater.

Personally, I use a small angle measurer tool, with it I measure the angle of the internal corner, halve the angle and then set my circular saw to that angle to cut each of the adjoining pieces. Much less hassle and a perfectly neat join line no matter what the angle of the wall.
 
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I know its bit of an old thread but I'm interested in why you would not mitre internal and external corners as it looks much neater.
It does not look neater.

The reason you do not mitre internal corners is because timber shrinks across the grain. This means that when the timber acclimatises it will lose some of its thickness.

As a result of shrinkage internally mitered corners will effectively open up and look shoite.

Timber shrinks almost nil along the grain.

This is why carpenters, joiners and fitters of skirting boards never EVER mitre internal corners.

They are ALWAYS scribed.
 
Mine do look neater and none have opened up, guess I did it properly ;o)

For anyone reading this and needing advice, I can't recommend my method enough, it looks clean, doesn't open up over time and saves a lot of effort!
 
why not just cut 45° on both and fit into the corner ? it looks and fits better
Because if your corners are not at a good 90 degree then a gap will show,I have fitted new skirting in every room of my 100 year old house and not found one square corner internal or external,scibe and screw with wood plugs to cap holes,is best because i stupidly decided to stain all the new woodwork
 
why not just cut 45° on both and fit into the corner ? it looks and fits better
Because if your corners are not at a good 90 degree then a gap will show,I have fitted new skirting in every room of my 100 year old house and not found one square corner internal or external,scibe and screw with wood plugs to cap holes,is best because i stupidly decided to stain all the new woodwork

This was my point too, but rather than blindly cutting 45° you first measure the angle of the inner wall using a small tool, then divide by two and cut using an angle saw - works every time for me, no faffing around with a scribe tool!
 
If you know what you are doing and know how to scribe properly then my method is better than yours also alot faster and will look alot better for many years.

Just an example, a small alcove with 2 internal corners you would fit a full piece with 2 mitres whereas I would fit a full piece and scribe into each corner then maybe mark for an external mitre.

Why do you think they learn you how to do it this way in college? For the fun of it.
 
The method I use is T slots which slip over large headed screws fixed to the walls.

Have wooden floors and don't like to see loose wiring. This method allows easy removal to hide the wires in a channel cut into the skirting.

Hi, I removed skirting to fit wooden floor (none of the skirting survived) the walls were plastered a year ago and the plaster only goes as far as the old skirting used to (hope that makes sense) so I've got brick/breeze for approx 12cm above the floor and the plaster stands approx 1/2cm proud.

I want to fit wooden skirting thinking of pine (can anyone recommend good supplier near Greenwich/Lewisham/Bexleyheath?) and need to know the best way to fit it.

I was told I'd need to pack out the walls before fitting skirting or any knock e.g. from hoover, would make the skirting come away from the wall.

I read this thread and noticed ABN's T-slot method - this sounds like something could use - am I right? - I love the idea of being able to lift skirting off to run cables .How do I make T-slots how many would I need per metre, and where on the brickwork should I put them - I mean close to the floor, the plaster or somewhere in the middle.

Thanks
:)
 

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