New boiler and one new radiator fitted but it’s not working.

[oldbutnotdead]

Did your brother test his handiwork before he left?
Check the valves on the pipework coming out of the boiler (a photo may be easiest). What pressure is showing on the pressure gauge? Are the upstairs radiators getting hot?
Most likely (given you have drop pipes to the downstairs rads) you have airlocked the main run. If your new radiator downstairs is a modern one (with full-size plugs at the top) you might want to try an aggressive bleed.

 

[Clairepops85]

I’m wondering now if the flow and return were right before and does it maybe need balancing? The living room radiators are hen they eventually come on are cold at the bottom and hot at top. When we had the boiler fitted they did a Magna flush on the system

 

[terryplumb]

There is no flow through your new rad ,if it's new pipework and valves and radiator it's probably plumbed in wrong.
Put the other rads etc back the way they were.

 

[Clairepops85]

Did your brother test his handiwork before he left?
Check the valves on the pipework coming out of the boiler (a photo may be easiest). What pressure is showing on the pressure gauge? Are the upstairs radiators getting hot?
Most likely (given you have drop pipes to the downstairs rads) you have airlocked the main run. If your new radiator downstairs is a modern one (with full-size plugs at the top) you might want to try an aggressive bleed.

It was late when he finished as he came after work so I told him to go and I’d let him know if it heated up. He said airlock what would you suggest for an aggressive bleed? All radiators are cold but all other radiators are turned off at the TRV and wheel head (bathroom one without a TRV)

 

[Clairepops85]

Boiler pressure is showing 1.7

Shall I turn everything back on on the other rads and get him to change the plumbing round?

 

[terryplumb]

There is no flow through your new rad ,if it's new pipework and valves and radiator it's probably plumbed in wrong.
Put the other rads etc back the way they were.

 

[Clairepops85]

Just checked the pipes coming off the boiler and they’re all cold

 

[Clairepops85]

Sorry do you mean disconnect all the pipework from the new feed and rad?

 

[terryplumb]

Sorry do you mean disconnect all the pipework from the new feed and rad?

Eh ??
Do nothing to the new rad.
Turn all other radiators TRV's back on ,and return the lockshield valve back to its original position on the bathroom rad.

 

[Clairepops85]

Eh ??
Do nothing to the new rad.
Turn all other radiators TRV's back on ,and return the lockshield valve back to its original position on the bathroom rad.

Sorry, I got all confused cos I didn’t realise someone else had replied. I’ll go do that now

 

[Clairepops85]

I’ve done all of that, kids are in bed now so gonna head there myself. If you could suggest something else for me to try tomorrow I will do. Hubby is off work tomorrow too, or is it a case of the plumbing being wrong way around on the new rad and I need to get my brother back out?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Is your new radiator a modern one with full-size threads at the top? (Like these)
And is your boiler pressurised? (No tanks in the loft, filling loop by the boiler)
If yes then I've had success by;
Acquire a spare radiator tail, a length of garden hosepipe, some PTFE tape and a big bucket.
If it's a short length of hosepipe (3' or so) fit it over the rad tail (hot water helps), fix it on with a jubilee clip or a cable tie if you have them to hand.
Switch heating off
Close both valves on the rad you're going to bleed (we'll start with the new one)
Bleed that rad (with the bleed valve) til water stops coming out.
Remove one of the chrome plugs at the top of the rad, replace it with your spare valve tail.
Attach the end of the hose to the valve tail (if you haven't already done that), stick the other end in the bucket (preferred- easier to see/hear air bubbles) or in a drain.
Ideally you'll have a friend here at the boiler.
Get your friend to turn the filling loop on and off to maintain about 2 bar pressure (avoid going above 3).
Turn one of the radiator valves on to full. Listen/watch for air pockets coming down the pipe, run it for at least a minute (if using buckets, try and have 2 so you can keep the flow going).
After a minute, close the open rad valve then open the other rad valve.
Again run for at least a minute.
Close that rad valve.
Tell your friend to close the filling loop.
Wait til water stops coming out of the hosepipe.
Remove the rad tail.
Refit the chrome plug.
Bleed system/operate filling loop til pressure is at 1 bar or so. Bleed all the radiators, not just the one you've been playing with.
Try the heating.
If that doesn't shift the airlock you will have to repeat the trick on an upstairs rad (but from the sound of it upstairs is decorated and you'll always get some spillage doing this trick).

EDIT Before doing this it's worth making sure at least one upstairs radiator is switched on (both valves open)- so any air moving will end up in that rad. If more than one is on that's fine, just remember to bleed them all. And the boiler (assuming there's an accessible bleed valve on it)

 

[Clairepops85]

Is your new radiator a modern one with full-size threads at the top? (Like these) View attachment 294303
And is your boiler pressurised? (No tanks in the loft, filling loop by the boiler)
If yes then I've had success by;
Acquire a spare radiator tail, a length of garden hosepipe, some PTFE tape and a big bucket.
If it's a short length of hosepipe (3' or so) fit it over the rad tail (hot water helps), fix it on with a jubilee clip or a cable tie if you have them to hand.
Switch heating off
Close both valves on the rad you're going to bleed (we'll start with the new one)
Bleed that rad (with the bleed valve) til water stops coming out.
Remove one of the chrome plugs at the top of the rad, replace it with your spare valve tail.
Attach the end of the hose to the valve tail (if you haven't already done that), stick the other end in the bucket (preferred- easier to see/hear air bubbles) or in a drain.
Ideally you'll have a friend here at the boiler.
Get your friend to turn the filling loop on and off to maintain about 2 bar pressure (avoid going above 3).
Turn one of the radiator valves on to full. Listen/watch for air pockets coming down the pipe, run it for at least a minute (if using buckets, try and have 2 so you can keep the flow going).
After a minute, close the open rad valve then open the other rad valve.
Again run for at least a minute.
Close that rad valve.
Tell your friend to close the filling loop.
Wait til water stops coming out of the hosepipe.
Remove the rad tail.
Refit the chrome plug.
Bleed system/operate filling loop til pressure is at 1 bar or so.
Try the heating.
If that doesn't shift the airlock you will have to repeat the trick on an upstairs rad (but from the sound of it upstairs is decorated and you'll always get some spillage doing this trick).

Yes it’s a new modern full size radiator. It’s 600x600. I’ll check back on here tomorrow and check out your suggestions

 

[terryplumb]

Ask brother to check that he has connected one pipe to the flow ,and the other to the return. I very much doubt there is an air lock ,with every other radiator closed down and the flow from the pump concentrated through the new radiator,and 1.7 bar of pressure in the system ,I would fully expect to get some flow through the new rad.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Ask brother to check that he has connected one pipe to the flow ,and the other to the return. I very much doubt there is an air lock ,with every other radiator closed down and the flow from the pump concentrated through the new radiator,and 1.7 bar of pressure in the system ,I would fully expect to get some flow through the new rad.

Do bubbles shift better in pressurised systems? Only asking cos I have a known high spot in my (gravity) system to a drop to the downstairs shower, never managed to clear it with the pump alone.