New build tv aerial

Thanks Lucid for sll the advice. I won't pretend I understand it all but it's certainly helpful.
I'm going to try the xb10 in the loft and see how we get on.
I'm getting my sister to double check she can't mount outside just in case signal not great from loft.

She has 4 tvs she wants working so I'm thinking I'd need to get a powered amplifier rather than a passive splitter given everything you've said about weak signal area.

My other concern is the type of cable the builders have used and how well its been connected. They've installed outlets which I wouldn't normally do so hopefully they've done a decent job ( new build so doubtful)

Edit...having said all this, they only sell the loft mount kit as a set with an aerial but the xb10 isn't included, it's the log36 or yagi so is there a specific reason for this.
I can get a loft kit elsewhere if need be

Builders tend to use the cheapest cable they can get away with. It's very likely to be a basic RG6-type coax with a copper coated steel core and aluminium braid. Since it's indoors and partially enclosed within the walls then it won't get any weathering. It will be a bit more lossy than decent cable but there's not much you can do about that since it's enclosed within the fabric of the building.

When you come to make the hook-up lead for the loft and thinking ahead to moving the aerial outside then you can use some decent all-copper cable such as Webro WF100, Triax TX100, Labgear PF100.

One area I'd definitely pay attention to is any wall sockets. This, for two reasons.

First, with only a few exceptions sparks are generally pretty hopeless when it comes to aerials. Its worth checking they made the basic connections correctly. I have seen braid shield left unconnected, or braid wrapped around the centre core before fixing. They also have a habit of daisy-chaining RF sockets.

Second, they use unshielded sockets because they're cheap. Being unshielded is a point of weakness for digital TV signals. You can tell an unshielded socket because you'll be looking directly at a small circuit board. Shielded sockets have the cables connection point enclosed in a small metal housing.

The requirement for 4x TV points means I think you're right about needing an amplified splitter. I would consider using a masthead splitter with variable gain. Masthead amps don't have to be installed outside on the actual aerial mast. It is the best place for any amplified splitter since it's where the cleanest signal can be found with the amp closest to the aerial, but it can be left on the loft too.

This PROception 4-way has 1-16dB variable gain. The power for it is a separate transformer that uses one of the coax downleads as a power cable. That's handy if there's no convenient 220V power supply in the loft. Low voltage power and TV signal can co-exist quite happily within a coax cable. Satellite receiver systems use the same principle to get power to the LNB on the end of a sat dish. ProCeption PROMHD14V

One point to note, at least one of the aerial socket wall plates need to be able to pass the power in order for this remote powering option to work. In the trade we make the distinction between isolated and non-isolated wall sockets. You might also see them referred to as DC-Pass which is easier to understand if you know that the power is indeed a DC voltage. Isolated means that it blocks DC power. Anyone who may have used Sky IR repeaters (Sky Eyes) will be familiar with this.

Here's a link to a PROception shielded non-isolated RF wall socket. Their part number is PROSLO11C

Toolstation does PROception gear, but they don't list the manufacturer codes. You'd need to ask in branch or through their online help if this shielded socket at £2.50 matches the PROception part number or get something from ATV.


Regarding ATV and why they list the Log36 and Yagi in their loft kits, my guess is because they're both relatively compact. Folk seem to have a bit of a blind side when it comes to numbers and working out whether an aerial will fit a space.
 
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Thanks again for your detailed response.
As I said I'd prefer to not have outlet plates but it is what it is. I think when I do it I'll get the aerial up and run a ciax straight out the loft to a TV just to make sure the aerial is fine then work from there.
Cable wise I always use wf100 and have a couple drums in the garage.
I can get power to the loft no problem so that side of things is fine.

I'll go thru your posts again and get a shopping list together.

Thanks again for all your help
 
I know nothing but arriving at our newly bought house three yrs ago soon discovered that it was rigged with all manner of cabling and boxes to operate the dreaded "Sky". I ain't paying for that of course so soon discovered an ancient loft ariel of unwritten capacity which one of our three tellies would accept and run intermittently. Asked the previous owner who said "Well yes thats why we decided to get Sky, the reception was so poor with the transmitter being about 30 miles away". Off I go to B&Q to get a modern hi gain ariel - £30 so not too bad and I am definitely not forking out for Sky. Hooking this up results in a much happier telly but then we want to run two tellies and often at the same time which does not work from said ariel. Further research indicates that an amplified splitter is probably the answer and in due course I find a four way job with detailed instructions for about £20 odd. Yey!! it works, perfect signal and both telly users v happy. Can't type techy stuff like the others on here but just telling you what I did for a perfect solution
 
I can get power to the loft no problem so that side of things is fine.
The easy and perfectly within the regulations way is to wire a 13amp socket to the lighting circuit wiring in the loft. Fit the socket where needed for the amp, then run 1.5mm or even 1.00mm T&E to (usually) a light. Mark the socket up clearly as only for use of the amp.
 
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