That's easily remedied.
Only a truly stupid person would decide that being staggeringly ignorant of almost everything to do with replacing a CU made them qualified to do it.
Go away then, because no matter how much you keep digging, and how much you keep whining and blustering, and how much you demonstrate that you know SFA, it is never going to go the way you want it to.
Well Thanks for all the helpful advice guys.. useful as it wasn't, I did it anyway, the local electrician has finished checking and given me the test papers (no install papers obviously) but all's good, well it is now if I hadn't of done it or looked into my houses wiring further then I would still have an overloaded light ring. Whoever built the extension originally and added 10 x 50W halogen down lights onto 1 of the lighting rings effectively doubling its load to 1415W on a 6A breaker. So I rectified that and now have 3 lighting rings about 575W each, also improved the voltage drop on the ring as well which was at 98% of the 3% allowed.
As you know I had no test gear, I was using a pessimistic value for Ze of 0.35ohms and calculated L/N + earth resistances to get R1 & R2. I rigged up a known resistance wire with a plug on the end for the sockets and sat at the distb board measuring with the multi-meter and subtracting the known wire, actually tallied quite well. When the electrician came to test his values were obviously more accurate, nether the less taking a pessimistic view gave a min fault current on the lights as 249A and 234A on the sockets.
I didn't know how the fluorescent lights in the shed affected the power factor so much, but after struggling through some reactive power theory my shed has a power factor of 0.85 haha.
In hindsight I can see why you guys mess your pants in the scrabble to jump on me about the two wire thing, ok sorry maybe its obvious to someone who does this day in day out that the two ends of ring go back to the MCB, my experience doesn't go as far as the CU, mostly just adding a spur or changing to a 2 way switch. I see now it obvious, maybe I was just writing and not thinking.
My position on the regulations is this... I do not want to discus them.. I will pay no attention to anyone wanting to quote me the book because I have the book, the only authority on the rules is the book, anything else is just pointless. My posts point was to start a discussion about the work, have I missed anything, anyone better ideas (and thanks to those suggesting the adaptor box for the SWA, I had thought of that but wasn't sure if it was accepted practice)
I never said.. (didn't get much of a chance to), but of course im going to get it tested, like I said in my first post, I'm competent to do the work I don't need to debate that with you all.
On the same subject, this is a forum for DIY, so you guys got to expect some amateurs, who maybe don't use the same terminology or picture the physical wiring in their head different to an experienced electrician.
I don't not like electricians, I can imagine your sour about me doing the work myself as obviously the moneys not going in your pocket. but really every time I've had work done by a contractor, I say.. I could of done better myself.
It might LOOK like a ring, but it will not act or test like a ring
What a load of ********.Well Thanks for all the helpful advice guys.. useful as it wasn't, I did it anyway, the local electrician has finished checking and given me the test papers (no install papers obviously) but all's good, well it is now if I hadn't of done it or looked into my houses wiring further then I would still have an overloaded light ring. Whoever built the extension originally and added 10 x 50W halogen down lights onto 1 of the lighting rings effectively doubling its load to 1415W on a 6A breaker. So I rectified that and now have 3 lighting rings about 575W each, also improved the voltage drop on the ring as well which was at 98% of the 3% allowed.
As you know I had no test gear, I was using a pessimistic value for Ze of 0.35ohms and calculated L/N + earth resistances to get R1 & R2. I rigged up a known resistance wire with a plug on the end for the sockets and sat at the distb board measuring with the multi-meter and subtracting the known wire, actually tallied quite well. When the electrician came to test his values were obviously more accurate, nether the less taking a pessimistic view gave a min fault current on the lights as 249A and 234A on the sockets.
I didn't know how the fluorescent lights in the shed affected the power factor so much, but after struggling through some reactive power theory my shed has a power factor of 0.85 haha.
In hindsight I can see why you guys mess your pants in the scrabble to jump on me about the two wire thing, ok sorry maybe its obvious to someone who does this day in day out that the two ends of ring go back to the MCB, my experience doesn't go as far as the CU, mostly just adding a spur or changing to a 2 way switch. I see now it obvious, maybe I was just writing and not thinking.
My position on the regulations is this... I do not want to discus them.. I will pay no attention to anyone wanting to quote me the book because I have the book, the only authority on the rules is the book, anything else is just pointless. My posts point was to start a discussion about the work, have I missed anything, anyone better ideas (and thanks to those suggesting the adaptor box for the SWA, I had thought of that but wasn't sure if it was accepted practice)
I never said.. (didn't get much of a chance to), but of course im going to get it tested, like I said in my first post, I'm competent to do the work I don't need to debate that with you all.
On the same subject, this is a forum for DIY, so you guys got to expect some amateurs, who maybe don't use the same terminology or picture the physical wiring in their head different to an experienced electrician.
I don't not like electricians, I can imagine your sour about me doing the work myself as obviously the moneys not going in your pocket. but really every time I've had work done by a contractor, I say.. I could of done better myself.
How does adding 500W to something double it to 1415W?
Only when it's done wrongly.
Well Thanks for all the helpful advice guys.. useful as it wasn't, I did it anyway, the local electrician has finished checking and given me the test papers (no install papers obviously) but all's good, well it is now if I hadn't of done it or looked into my houses wiring further then I would still have an overloaded light ring. Whoever built the extension originally and added 10 x 50W halogen down lights onto 1 of the lighting rings effectively doubling its load to 1415W on a 6A breaker. So I rectified that and now have 3 lighting rings about 575W each, also improved the voltage drop on the ring as well which was at 98% of the 3% allowed.
As you know I had no test gear, I was using a pessimistic value for Ze of 0.35ohms and calculated L/N + earth resistances to get R1 & R2. I rigged up a known resistance wire with a plug on the end for the sockets and sat at the distb board measuring with the multi-meter and subtracting the known wire, actually tallied quite well. When the electrician came to test his values were obviously more accurate, nether the less taking a pessimistic view gave a min fault current on the lights as 249A and 234A on the sockets.
I didn't know how the fluorescent lights in the shed affected the power factor so much, but after struggling through some reactive power theory my shed has a power factor of 0.85 haha.
In hindsight I can see why you guys mess your pants in the scrabble to jump on me about the two wire thing, ok sorry maybe its obvious to someone who does this day in day out that the two ends of ring go back to the MCB, my experience doesn't go as far as the CU, mostly just adding a spur or changing to a 2 way switch. I see now it obvious, maybe I was just writing and not thinking.
My position on the regulations is this... I do not want to discus them.. I will pay no attention to anyone wanting to quote me the book because I have the book, the only authority on the rules is the book, anything else is just pointless. My posts point was to start a discussion about the work, have I missed anything, anyone better ideas (and thanks to those suggesting the adaptor box for the SWA, I had thought of that but wasn't sure if it was accepted practice)
I never said.. (didn't get much of a chance to), but of course im going to get it tested, like I said in my first post, I'm competent to do the work I don't need to debate that with you all.
On the same subject, this is a forum for DIY, so you guys got to expect some amateurs, who maybe don't use the same terminology or picture the physical wiring in their head different to an experienced electrician.
I don't not like electricians, I can imagine your sour about me doing the work myself as obviously the moneys not going in your pocket. but really every time I've had work done by a contractor, I say.. I could of done better myself.
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