New electric oven which requires a hard-wired connection

[dazzler9000]

I have a new oven that needs hard wiring. The old oven was connected via a 3-pin plug. The spec states 'Total Electricity Loading (W): 4900'


I've looked at the fuse board and the MCB has b40 on it, so I'm assuming that's a 40A, so we should be good in that respect.

So my question is, is swapping out a 3-pin plug a DIY job, or do I need to call in an electrician? I've connected new sockets in the past, so not a complete novice.

If I were to DIY it, what would I need? Do I just swap out the existing 3-pin socket for something like this - https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-900-series-45a-1-gang-dp-cooker-switch-white/45659 or am I missing something?

 

[dazzler9000]

Over the other side of the kitchen, I've had a look at how my existing induction hob is wired and I have a switched fused spur connecting to the mains and then the big red switch connecting into that, in which the induction hob is wired. Would I do the same for my oven?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Over the other side of the kitchen, I've had a look at how my existing induction hob is wired and I have a switched fused spur connecting to the mains and then the big red switch connecting into that, in which the induction hob is wired. Would I do the same for my oven?

Are you sure that the hob is actually connected to the Fused Connector Unit?

Is it a hob that limits the current?

 

[dazzler9000]

Are you sure that the hob is actually connected to the Fused Connector Unit?

Is it a hob that limits the current?

Oh, I don't know, I just assumed as much. I didn't fit it as it was here when we moved in. Would it be normal for the electrical feed to come into the big switch and the appliance/hob to connect there as well? If that's the case, I wonder what the fused spur is for. Clearly, I'm no electrician.

 

[JohnD]

An appliance using more than 3kW must not be connected to a socket circuit that is fused at 32A

Kitchens are usually equipped with a cooker circuit, and this is what you should connect both your hob and your double oven to. Neither should have a 13A plug or a 13A FCU

 

[EFLImpudence]

Does the FCU switch off the hob - or is it just the big switch that switches the hob?


You say that there is a 40A MCB; what does the circuit label say?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Would it be normal for the electrical feed to come into the big switch and the appliance/hob to connect there as well?

Yes.

Although normally they are above the worktop with a Cooker Outlet Plate below.

If that's the case, I wonder what the fused spur is for. Clearly, I'm no electrician.

 

[dazzler9000]

So, I was curious and took the big switch apart. It looks like the mains feed comes into it and the hob connects off of it as well. The fused spur doesn't isolate the hob. Couldn't see anything obvious that stopped working when I switched that off, so I think that doesn't play a part here.

The 40A MCB label on the board states oven.

So, just to recap, in order to get rid of the 3-pin plug, am I right in thinking I just buy a new 'big switch' and do the same as what's been done with my hob, i.e. wire the mains and oven into the new big switch?

 

[dazzler9000]

Yes.

Although normally they are above the worktop with a Cooker Outlet Plate below.

View attachment 349663

Oh, I see, mine will be integrated into the kitchen units.

 

[JohnD]

the fcu might be for something associated with the cooker or nearby, such as an extractor hood, a worktop light, an electric igniter and clock for a gas cooker. These may no longer be present

 

[EFLImpudence]

So, I was curious and took the big switch apart. It looks like the mains feed comes into it and the hob connects off of it as well. The fused spur doesn't isolate the hob. Couldn't see anything obvious that stopped working when I switched that off, so I think that doesn't play a part here.

That's good.

The 40A MCB label on the board states oven.

Ok.

So, just to recap, in order to get rid of the 3-pin plug, am I right in thinking I just buy a new 'big switch' and do the same as what's been done with my hob, i.e. wire the mains into the switch and my oven?

Just connect both the hob and oven to the existing switch.

 

[dazzler9000]

the fcu might be for something associated with the cooker or nearby, such as an extractor hood, a worktop light, an electric igniter and clock for a gas cooker. These may no longer be present

Ah, you're right, that's for the extractor. Every day is a learning day. I will label that one up.

 

[dazzler9000]

That's good.


Ok.


Just connect both the hob and oven to the existing switch.

I can't as they are at different sides of the kitchen. The hob also has it's own 32A MCB on the board.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I can't as they are at different sides of the kitchen

Well, somehow you have to and connect it to the 'oven' circuit; you can't use the socket circuit.

There are plenty of ovens which come with plugs fitted that you can just plug in.

 

[dazzler9000]

Well, somehow you have to and connect it to the 'oven' circuit; you can't use the socket circuit.

There are plenty of ovens which come with plugs fitted that you can just plug in.

I think I may have confused the thread by discussing my hobs electrical supply, which has its own feed to the circuit board, but is at the other side of the kitchen. I was discussing this to try and figure out if I should just copy what's been done there for my oven, by replacing my 3-pin plug for my oven with a new big switch. Unless I'm missing something key, I think that's all I need to do.