New electric oven which requires a hard-wired connection

[JohnD]

As a rule of thumb, single ovens manufactured for the UK market are fitted with a 13A plug, and you are told to use a 13A socket, but told you can cut the plug off and use a different one if your installation has a different socket type.

For countries which use a 16A socket circuit, they are generally fitted with a European plug of some kind, and the user is instructed to use a 16A circuit.

However it is usually the same oven, only the instructions and the plug are different. It is often possible to verify this by reading the specification

Double ovens, cookers, ranges, and ovens with a separate grill that can use both the oven elements and the grill elements at the same time, use more power and cannot be used with a 13A plug.

America is different. Most sockets are 120V 15A, which is about half the power of UK and Europe sockets, so they have 240V circuits for cookers, tumbledriers, washers, immersion heaters and other large appliances. RoW finds this quite curious.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have a new oven that needs hard wiring. The old oven was connected via a 3-pin plug. The spec states 'Total Electricity Loading (W): 4900'

 

[dazzler9000]

(In response to johnD)

Yes, I understand this. My question is, how do I hard wire my new oven when all I have is a 3-pin plug socket? Do I simply remove this socket and replace it with a big switch and connect both the mains feed and appliance to the switch, the same as my hob has had done (separate circuit.).

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, I understand this. My question is, how do I hard wire my new oven when all I have is a 3-pin plug socket?

You don't.

Do I simply remove this socket and replace it with a big switch and connect both the mains feed and appliance to the switch, the same as my hob has had done (separate circuit.).

No, you will need another separate circuit from the consumer unit or wire it across the room to the existing switch -

or get a smaller oven that can be plugged in.

 

[dazzler9000]

You don't.


No, you will need another separate circuit from the consumer unit or wire it across the room to the existing switch -

or get a smaller oven that can be plugged in.

Oh, okay.

I do have two circuits/connections to the fuse board though as explained. One connects to a 32A fuse (my hob) and one connects to the existing oven 40A.

 

[EFLImpudence]

One connects to a 32A fuse (my hob) and one connects to the existing oven 40A.

As you say - oh, okay.

Well if that 40A one is a separate circuit for the oven then yes, you can get another 'big switch' and connect.



Sorry if I have been confusing the circuits.

 

[dazzler9000]

As you say - oh, okay.

Well if that 40A one is a separate circuit for the oven then yes, you can get another 'big switch' and connect.



Sorry if I have been confusing the circuits.

Thanks for confirming, I think I confused the thread by mentioning the other circuit.

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[dazzler9000]

Next question..... Can somebody suggest a suitable switch or can I get any cooker switch? I've seen single-pole and double-pole switches.

Edit... A bit of research suggests due to the load, I need a double pole switch. This looks to do the job - MK 45A DP

 

[EFLImpudence]

Any reputable make 45A switch.

There are single socket sized ones but obviously there is less room behind them for large wires.