just read my post, were says "ALL flooring" i mean the 18-25mm ply mate not ur exsisting floor..oops
opps a daisys
, i had to look twice at your post BUT i understood what you meant 
Newbie floor tiling question
- Thread starter Fred27
- Start date
opps a daisys
, i had to look twice at your post BUT i understood what you meant Sponsored Links
Thanks again, guys. You're not telling me what I wan't to hear, but best I hear it before I screw up.
I'm just wondering why the advice I'm getting now differs from the sticky that I've based my assumptions on:
If this really won't do it sounds like I'll have to get a professional in. Either that or follow my original plan but with some added Ditra and hope for the best.
I'm just wondering why the advice I'm getting now differs from the sticky that I've based my assumptions on:
As you can see, I was intending to follow the overboarding rather than replacing option.Wall and floor tiling basics said:
If this really won't do it sounds like I'll have to get a professional in. Either that or follow my original plan but with some added Ditra and hope for the best.
Thanks again, guys. You're not telling me what I wan't to hear, but best I hear it before I screw up.
I'm just wondering why the advice I'm getting now differs from the sticky that I've based my assumptions on:
As you can see, I was intending to follow the overboarding rather than replacing option.Wall and floor tiling basics said:
If this really won't do it sounds like I'll have to get a professional in. Either that or follow my original plan but with some added Ditra and hope for the best.
Hi Fred
Not sure of what thread you got that from but to me this is only the guys opinion who wrote it, although there is nothing wrong with his choice, and thats what it is, HIS choice.He says screw boards every 200mm, whilst serving my apprenticeship 31 yrs ago we were learnt to screw the board at every 150mm, just different opinions.My opinion and possibly the guy who wrote that sticky is, 12mm MINIMUM thickness for overboarding.
If you go with the advice you have recieved here you will not go wrong.
If you get a pro in to do it for you, you have peace of mind that if there are any problems he will sort them for you, rather than you doing it yourself, finding you are getting past your own competency at fixing tiles, then you need to get a pro in and that will cost you more in the long run.If you decide to get a pro in, go for a few estimates,ask as many questions as you can, BUT you MUST specify EXACTLY what you want done.
best of luck Jimmy
would another option be a backer type board instead of ply?? Just thinking? They are more stable.
Would the overboarding not raise your whole floor level up though? Whereas, taking the flooring up and then reboarding with say 25mm ply wouldn't.
Would the overboarding not raise your whole floor level up though? Whereas, taking the flooring up and then reboarding with say 25mm ply wouldn't.
Sponsored Links
simples...mate
manufacturers recommend overboard min 15mm wbp ply..now in all my years of tile fixing i could count on one hand how many times i have actually sourced 15mm ply and used 15mm...
now 12mm wbp ply DOES NOT have the same strength and capabilties and other techincal stuff as 15mm ply BUT 18MM WBP PLY HAS THE EXCAXT SAME CAPABILTIES AS 15MM..its a way of tile/addy manufaturers way of getting out of failures imo..now a tile fixer will know when he/she will be able to use 12mm and when not to...
again i would recommend lifting exsisting floor replacing with either 18mm then 6mm backerboards or 25mm then ditra other might have other options here fred27 stick around see what others have to say then u will be able to decide what would be best for u..or get at least 3 tile fixer round get them to see and give u quote they will explain in detail what they would do ...
remember diff.tile fixer diff methods..in my option..
but best off mate am aff to the pub
manufacturers recommend overboard min 15mm wbp ply..now in all my years of tile fixing i could count on one hand how many times i have actually sourced 15mm ply and used 15mm...
now 12mm wbp ply DOES NOT have the same strength and capabilties and other techincal stuff as 15mm ply BUT 18MM WBP PLY HAS THE EXCAXT SAME CAPABILTIES AS 15MM..its a way of tile/addy manufaturers way of getting out of failures imo..now a tile fixer will know when he/she will be able to use 12mm and when not to...
again i would recommend lifting exsisting floor replacing with either 18mm then 6mm backerboards or 25mm then ditra other might have other options here fred27 stick around see what others have to say then u will be able to decide what would be best for u..or get at least 3 tile fixer round get them to see and give u quote they will explain in detail what they would do ...
remember diff.tile fixer diff methods..in my option..
but best off mate am aff to the pub
just a foot note ere mate.
i am not keen at all with tiling straight onto 25mm screwed to joists if u have a weak point or bend/bevel in any of ur joists U will have a failure imo some will NOT agree with this SOME might...
i have myself had a few failures in the the past regarding this and the ply being contamaited.
hope this does not put u off fred do some more research mate before u decide what u will do..
i am not keen at all with tiling straight onto 25mm screwed to joists if u have a weak point or bend/bevel in any of ur joists U will have a failure imo some will NOT agree with this SOME might...
i have myself had a few failures in the the past regarding this and the ply being contamaited.
hope this does not put u off fred do some more research mate before u decide what u will do..
hi KEV,
not sure if you know how to install ditra or not, if not here is a short video for you to watch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1k&feature=related
not sure if you know how to install ditra or not, if not here is a short video for you to watch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1k&feature=related
Thanks JC - I have seen a similar video - is nice stuff. Will hopefully be putting my (small) amount down fairly soon, once sorted a decent tile cutter etc.
To the OP'r, from my perspective, I just wouldn't want to waste (or risk wasting) all that money on the porcelain tiles, for the sake of doing it right. And in the end, that might be a bit of overkill, but better than getting problems later down the line.
Is it a lot of hassle to take the old flooring up then? If you have troubles near the edges where it meets walls (as I have done) then you can leave that bit and sort it out later. Its the main bits that need to be solid. I doubt a tile will crack due to expansion or whatever, right up near the wall (wise words maybe!!).
Anyway, good luck whichever you choose. As someone else said, maybe get a few quotes and see what the pros would do, then make your mind up.
To the OP'r, from my perspective, I just wouldn't want to waste (or risk wasting) all that money on the porcelain tiles, for the sake of doing it right. And in the end, that might be a bit of overkill, but better than getting problems later down the line.
Is it a lot of hassle to take the old flooring up then? If you have troubles near the edges where it meets walls (as I have done) then you can leave that bit and sort it out later. Its the main bits that need to be solid. I doubt a tile will crack due to expansion or whatever, right up near the wall (wise words maybe!!).
Anyway, good luck whichever you choose. As someone else said, maybe get a few quotes and see what the pros would do, then make your mind up.
If you have your heart set on leaving the existing floor down then I would screw down every single floor board then glue and screw 12mm Auapanel on top. Fill all joint with flexible adhesive and fibreglass tape.
It might be worthwhile taking a few board up to check current joist size, length of span and position of sleeper walls etc.
If you are just gonna rip the floor up and re board, you still need to overboard it with something so it does seem like a waste of time going down that route to me.
It might be worthwhile taking a few board up to check current joist size, length of span and position of sleeper walls etc.
If you are just gonna rip the floor up and re board, you still need to overboard it with something so it does seem like a waste of time going down that route to me.
You're posting late on a Saturday night, tictic. Not dispensing drunken DIY advice after a few beers I hope.
My setup is 22mm floorboards in the hallway, toilet and kitchen. There's 18mm ply in the more recently built conservatory.
The 16mm veneered I mentioned was wooden flooring that had been put on top of that - I've already ripped it up. If I mentioned hardboard it was a typo.
I've decided that I'll go with 18mm ply on top of what I've already got. The more people I speak to, the more I hear that 12mm just isn't enough. I doubt I'll use any Ditra as the transition into other (carpeted) room might be too large.
My setup is 22mm floorboards in the hallway, toilet and kitchen. There's 18mm ply in the more recently built conservatory.
The 16mm veneered I mentioned was wooden flooring that had been put on top of that - I've already ripped it up. If I mentioned hardboard it was a typo.
I've decided that I'll go with 18mm ply on top of what I've already got. The more people I speak to, the more I hear that 12mm just isn't enough. I doubt I'll use any Ditra as the transition into other (carpeted) room might be too large.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
