That's right but sometimes a high head external circ pump can satisfy a greater number of rads than a lower head internal one without having to install a LLH and a extra circ pump, also most system boilers have a internal bypass that limits the head to a max of 4M or so.
No hot water/heating plus leak on Myson MPE222 two port valve
- Thread starter Anon
- Start date
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Thank you - there was no movement at all in the pipes, so it would have meant dismantling other pipes. I therefore decided to try the approach in the video, as if it didn't work then I would need a plumber to dismantle it anyway.
The system is drained. I followed the video to remove the spindle/core. What is not the same, in case anyone else is considering this, is thr metal plate isn't attached to the spindle core - the plate is holding a unit in place. There is also a very fine black seal inside the two port valve rim between the spindle and the brass valve. I spotted it while taking the new one apart to see if it was similar to the video (it was broadly - so as he warned, also be careful to keep hold of the centre when removing the spindle from the body, or it could fall apart/spring out).
I removed the old centre, including the old seal, wiped it to clean out any potential dirt, put in the new seal and new spindle, replaced the cover plate. Water replaced in the system and it is not leaking.
However, the boiler is still not firing (after its initial routine when the power is switched back on). The boiler is not showing any error messages. MPE222 actuator changed in case that had broken due to water damage, but still no hot water nor heating.
It looks like I will have to call out a plumber after all, as I have no leak (which would appear the obvious issue, given the hot water was fine until this), but no working system .
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If the boiler is still firing up doing the tests you run through in post #1 and the circ pump runs but no firing when you select either CH or HW then its a boiler service/heating engineer you require.
Can you use a multimeter?
Can you use a multimeter?
No unfortunately I don't have a multimeter (so wouldn't know how to use it, but could buy and learn if it were safe to do so and it would help identify the issue).
The Grundfoss pump came on and said 45 and we could hear the flow, but cannot recall what the number normally is to know if it had changed.
We were planning to get a service in the next few months, so it seems we need to arrange it now. It may just be coincidence that the hot water/CH has stopped at the same time as the water leak on the valve, but it would seem odd.
The water that came out was a dirty colour so should I learn and do a system flush/clean before getting the service, or just leave it to them now and accept defeat?
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You said that your new valve had leaked water into the valve head.
That sounds as if the orientation of the valve may be incorrect or inadvisable.
They should never be fitted with the head underneath the valve.
They may be fitted with the water flow up/down but then any leaks from the seals should not get into the head.
That sounds as if the orientation of the valve may be incorrect or inadvisable.
They should never be fitted with the head underneath the valve.
They may be fitted with the water flow up/down but then any leaks from the seals should not get into the head.
Thank you. Sorry, I wasn't perhaps clear. The leak was on the spindle. It is in the centre of the valve fitted top to bottom on the pipe with the valve on the side(?) with manual/auto on top, so it appears fitted correctly, but water from the spindle was in the casing. That said, whoever fitted it was not considering repairs as it isn't really accessible.
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I have now got a multimeter so will need to look up how to use it and what to check.
Have been busy, so I haven't arranged an engineer yet (fortunately it isn't cold!).
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