No hot water No C/H

[az*eboy]

Hi, I have no hot water or C/H can you help?

I have a Myson Appollo boiler - the boiler seem to fire up ok but am getting no hot water or C/H. The motorised valve does click between the H/water & C/H flow. I have tried taking the 13 month old grundfos 15/60 pump off and replacing and in doing so the pipes did get hot for about 10 mins and 2 of the 9 radiators did get hot but still no hot water. The pipes did sound like water was rushing round but only for the 10 mins.

Any ideas much appreciated!
Kind regards

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Follow the pipe up from your pump through the diverter valve and towards the cylinder . You should find an air vent which needs bleeding

 

[stecross]

Follow the pipe up from your pump through the diverter valve and towards the cylinder . You should find an air vent which needs bleeding

 

[az*eboy]

Hi Slugbabydotcom,

Thanks for the suggestion. I gave this a go last night. The bleed valve was the other side of the cylinder. I drained the whole system, bled the radiators and the refilled the system releasing the air in the radiators, and valve by the cylinder. It did the same thing but did last for about an hour this time but only 2 rads got hot and still no hot water. What do you suggest?

Kind regards

 

[kevplumb]

check the three way valve

it may have a lever on to lock it mid position

 

[ChrisR]

CHeck the pump too - they can sound like they're pumping but actually be doing very little.
It should whisk hot water through very quickly, which you should be able to feel.

 

[az*eboy]

I have installed a new pump which was pumping the water for about an hour, then it slowed to a standstill and when I put it up to level 3 you can hear the water coming down the pipe but not at a great rate. While it was working the pipe going into and out of the pump did get very hot and stayed hot through the 3-way valve through both pipes coming off of that. If its worth mentioning the pump also got very hot!
I also removed the 3-way valve which seems fine, all 3 positions ok.
What do you think?

Kind regards

 

[ChrisR]

it slowed to a standstill

Eh? A new pump should just sit there spinning. They do run surprisingly hot.

It's possible you have a soggy ball. Some runbber balls in valves, notably Honeywell, have been known to react to Fernox that way. The rubber swells up, though I would have thought you'd still get enough flow round it. Only ways to tell are by the feel of the valve at the manual lever once you know hor they should feel, or drain system then take the plate off the part of the brass part of the valve which is next to the head, and take the gubbins out. You CAN buy just the gubbins but not easily . BES do it.

 

[az*eboy]

Thanks for the advise. I will try draining system again and check that out. Bloody thing will work!!!!!!!
Cheers!

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Apollo's should be fitted with a by-pass, effectively a short circuit. If this by -pass valve is fully open then that could be the cause of your problem.
This by-pass should be on a pipe that comes off after your pump and before your diverter valve. The pipe continues to the return.

With the system running, close this valve to allow all the power of the pump to pull the water through the rads. To clear the air from each rad circuit individually close off all the rads bar the one you want to get working.
Moving from one rad to the next do not create a situation where all the rads are closed as this will labour your pump.

When you have got all the rads warm re-open the by-pass a quarter of the way. The purpose of this valve is to maintain an 11ºC temp difference between the pipes going in and out of the boiler. If the valve is closed the water heats up too much in one pass and the boiler gets noisy [kettling]
Not open enough and rads dont get hot.

 

[az*eboy]

Thanks for the advise again!!!!! I will try this tonight and fingers crossed it will work!

I wont have any access to a PC tomoz so i'll come back on Monday with my success story!

Kind regards

 

[Agile]

Has anyone noticed that this fellow ALWAYS drains the system before doing anything.

Since the problem is almost certainly air the LAST thing he should be thing of is draining anything!

Tony

 

[ChrisR]

I was thinking about that!
To check the pump, remove the screw form the contre of the "back" end andpoke a scredriver in to feel if the shaft is spinning. An old pump could be disable by gunge in the rotor, of the rotor having come off the shaft, but not a brand new one.
You would hopefully have isolation valves eaach side of the pump. If you want to get into the pump to see it spinning, undo the 2 or 4 screws and pull it apart. (May have to tap a knife blade in the join to split it)

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

Has anyone noticed that this fellow ALWAYS drains the system before doing anything.

Since the problem is almost certainly air the LAST thing he should be thing of is draining anything!

Tony

At least the system will be fairly well flushed out!

Chuck some inhibitor in on the last refill or better still do a full treatment with a flushing agent especially if you get loads of black water out when u drain off. Should be easy for you with all the practice you've been getting

 

[az*eboy]

At least you guys are putting a smile on my face!

Think the water company is going to be checking the area for leaks!!!!!

Pump is spinning and seems ok but struggles to push water round the pipes? emersion works so am getting by for now, may give the inhibitor a go but water is running quite clean now as you can imagine! There is some rusty water comming out of rads but not too bad. It was quite dark at first though.

Is there any other way to release an air blockage other than the valve by the cylinder or the rads?

Kind regards