Gloworm comapct 100e c/h cutout after 1 min
- Thread starter ambi
- Start date
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Yes not much room on the left.
£80
Have you changed one?
Can they be freed off?
How far does that pin normally protrude?
The fault finder talks as if it normally can be pushed across by hand easily?
regards
£80
Have you changed one?
Can they be freed off?
How far does that pin normally protrude?
The fault finder talks as if it normally can be pushed across by hand easily?
regards
About 6 inches
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/glowworm-spares-glowworm-diverter-valves-c-473_637_641.html
Too many
Not very often, the spring can collapse.
It should move about half an inch.
Yes it should spring back freely.
http://www.uk-plumbing.com/glowworm-spares-glowworm-diverter-valves-c-473_637_641.html
Too many
Not very often, the spring can collapse.
It should move about half an inch.
Yes it should spring back freely.
Where the same faults being reported on the ones you have changed?
Can a spring replacement be possible?
Do you think if may have just stuck with no C/H being used ove r the summer?
Give me some hope I am hoping to free this!
Can a spring replacement be possible?
Do you think if may have just stuck with no C/H being used ove r the summer?
Give me some hope I am hoping to free this!
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You can always try stripping it and cleaning it, springs don't rot often - but I have seen this, (and even the shaft once).
It may just be stuck, remember use silicon lubricant/vasolene when you put it back together. and only remove one side at a time.
Good luck
It may just be stuck, remember use silicon lubricant/vasolene when you put it back together. and only remove one side at a time.
Good luck
Agile,
Turned impeller by hand earlier. Selector alters speed o.k. Have not actually split apart, but checked diverter valve and it is definately only protruding about 2/3mm and not able to manually press down or retuning to C/H position as fault finder specifies it should. Assuming therefore that pump is more than likely o.k. and valve basically locked in the d/h/w position not enabling c/h circulation creating similar problem to failed pump ? Diverter needle is defo stuck. Feel free to offer your thoughts, all welcome?
Beerlover,
One side at a time?
See link with pic below.
Why 2 securing pins?
Why 2 needles?
Extra spring?
http://www.akgas.co.uk/Glowworm-Diverter-Valve/Glowworm-Diverter-Service-Kit-S801197.html
Turned impeller by hand earlier. Selector alters speed o.k. Have not actually split apart, but checked diverter valve and it is definately only protruding about 2/3mm and not able to manually press down or retuning to C/H position as fault finder specifies it should. Assuming therefore that pump is more than likely o.k. and valve basically locked in the d/h/w position not enabling c/h circulation creating similar problem to failed pump ? Diverter needle is defo stuck. Feel free to offer your thoughts, all welcome?
Beerlover,
One side at a time?
See link with pic below.
Why 2 securing pins?
Why 2 needles?
Extra spring?
http://www.akgas.co.uk/Glowworm-Diverter-Valve/Glowworm-Diverter-Service-Kit-S801197.html
Also Agile would pressure diff micro switch not operate if pump had failed?
beerlover,
I think I see what you mean. The Parts list only really shows the left hand brass part, but there is also a fixed part on the R/hand side. Why is it crucial one at a time? What has been the problem side in your experience?
comments welcome
I think I see what you mean. The Parts list only really shows the left hand brass part, but there is also a fixed part on the R/hand side. Why is it crucial one at a time? What has been the problem side in your experience?
comments welcome
You do the motor side first, you need to make sure the needle locates in the r/hand socket it is more oboius with the bits in your hand. It is only the right that will need cleaning as the spindle will come out with this, fiddly, but not impossible if you are patient, and gentle, when removing/replacing it.
o.k thanks for input.
Have you experienced the same faults prior to changing these?
Thinking of full system drain down as don`t want leaking valves for boiler shut off and boiler situ is a pain.
Have you experienced the same faults prior to changing these?
Thinking of full system drain down as don`t want leaking valves for boiler shut off and boiler situ is a pain.
yep inhib in on satis outcome
Well,
Thought it would be right and nice to report back on events!
Went down to daughters today and decided to go and double check over everything prior to draining down and removing the diverter valve/s and needles to see if I could clean/free them or have to purchase new ones.
Checked out things and removed diverter switch again and could only feel 2/3mm of pin irrespective of demands being called ( no movement at all )
Decided to try a shot in the dark prior to draining!
Left hand of boiler is not too far away from a wall as would be the case!
Anyway, managed to persuade side panel to come off. Got a pair of bent nosed pliers and after a short time managed to just get on pin by feel.
Pull-push nothing! A good hard pull/push and a small crack and ping! Thought that sounded good. Felt inside and pin was out about 6/7mm, ( to C/H) superb! Then got a small pin hammer and got the round end into the diverter valve end. The pin didn`t want to push the other way ( to d/h/w ).
Bit more effort and crack and ping again! Then encouraged it via pushing with the pin hammer end quite a number of times. It now appeared free and operable. Reconnected diverter switch and tried calling for system to operate. Fired up and didn`t shut down after 1 min as had been happening previously. Tried C/H and d/h/w over the next hr. Anyway everything is now working absolutely lovely as it should do. Probably because pin had been stuck in the d/h/w position over the summer had caused it to stick. I don`t think it will cause anymore problems but if it should play up again then at least it will be straight to it for a strip out and clean or change if need be.
Many thanks to beerlover for your input
Regards
Ambi
Thought it would be right and nice to report back on events!
Went down to daughters today and decided to go and double check over everything prior to draining down and removing the diverter valve/s and needles to see if I could clean/free them or have to purchase new ones.
Checked out things and removed diverter switch again and could only feel 2/3mm of pin irrespective of demands being called ( no movement at all )
Decided to try a shot in the dark prior to draining!
Left hand of boiler is not too far away from a wall as would be the case!
Anyway, managed to persuade side panel to come off. Got a pair of bent nosed pliers and after a short time managed to just get on pin by feel.
Pull-push nothing! A good hard pull/push and a small crack and ping! Thought that sounded good. Felt inside and pin was out about 6/7mm, ( to C/H) superb! Then got a small pin hammer and got the round end into the diverter valve end. The pin didn`t want to push the other way ( to d/h/w ).
Bit more effort and crack and ping again! Then encouraged it via pushing with the pin hammer end quite a number of times. It now appeared free and operable. Reconnected diverter switch and tried calling for system to operate. Fired up and didn`t shut down after 1 min as had been happening previously. Tried C/H and d/h/w over the next hr. Anyway everything is now working absolutely lovely as it should do. Probably because pin had been stuck in the d/h/w position over the summer had caused it to stick. I don`t think it will cause anymore problems but if it should play up again then at least it will be straight to it for a strip out and clean or change if need be.
Many thanks to
beerlover for your inputRegards
Ambi
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