top back on.
Yes, boiler does fire up with just HW on....
Yes, boiler does fire up with just HW on....
No Hot Water when HW switch is on but radiators stay on HOT
- Thread starter MikeDee
- Start date
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will sit and wait to see if rads get hot with just HW on.
Can i add, the MV (round metal cover) was still very hot when i went to put cover back on there. Is this normal?
Can i add, the MV (round metal cover) was still very hot when i went to put cover back on there. Is this normal?
feel bothsides of the valve to rads and hw what side is getting hot ?
and feel the return out of bottom of cylinder what is that ?
and feel the return out of bottom of cylinder what is that ?
valve to the right of rad is v hot (left hand one only warm)
return out of bottom of cylinder is only warm, possibly cooling down from earlier (top one is VERY hot)
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so your hw is on heating off but your rads are getting hot
yes, the one upstairs are starting to get hot
seems like the only 2 that were starting to go hot were the ones closest to the HW tank upsatirs. All downstairs are cold.
that tells me the valve is faulty in the bottom is like a rubber ball that moves side to side, and they wear.
you have hw only on so you shouldn't be getting hot rads. valves passing water.
as for your hw cylinder the top pipe is hot the bottom is cold i would say you have an airlock in cylinder coil.
you have hw only on so you shouldn't be getting hot rads. valves passing water.
as for your hw cylinder the top pipe is hot the bottom is cold i would say you have an airlock in cylinder coil.
do you mean the motorized valve is faulty?
how easy to remove airlock in cylinder coil?
PS i've just switched the boiler switch from HIGH to LOW Setting (on front of boiler) and the water appears to be getting hot now. Would this have any bearing on what we discussed?
many thanks
yes the motorised valve faulty. letting by to rads on hw only.
as for turning high to low should make no difference.
to get the air out of coil slacken the nut on the cylinder side of the mot valve afew turns.
place a tower and abowl under it, that will release some water but should release any air in coil.
as for turning high to low should make no difference.
to get the air out of coil slacken the nut on the cylinder side of the mot valve afew turns.
place a tower and abowl under it, that will release some water but should release any air in coil.
one last thing, is the MV easy to replace? Are we just talking about replacing the box i pulled off earlier with the power cable attached? (Switch off electricity and replace the unit?) do B&Q sell these? if so how much, roughly?
i think all yours needs changing as your rads get hot on hw only.
that tells new it's not shutting fully.
start about £45 up depending on model.
if changing the lot it's a drain down.
i would take it off and check first it may be just muck jamming it from shutting if it's old, it don't take much gap to let hot water pass.
could save you a few bob.
that tells new it's not shutting fully.
start about £45 up depending on model.
if changing the lot it's a drain down.
i would take it off and check first it may be just muck jamming it from shutting if it's old, it don't take much gap to let hot water pass.
could save you a few bob.
do you mean the whole MV box AND the brass pipework behind it (the nipple thing i tested with the pliars)?
yes the brass bit as well thats where the ball is and they can break up.
brilliant mate. At least i know what may be causing it now. Thanks very much for all your help tonight, very helpful indeed.
Will attempt to sort it this week, better head off now i can hear the wife nagging !
thanks again mate!
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