No power getting to electric shower

I am a keen supporter of DIY,

So am I.
Maybe this forum should be a restricted one?
I don't personally think it should, you will have genuine cases where posters are not aware of the legality and the requirements that are needed to be met.
Hopefully their visit will enlighten them and hopefully they are enlightened in a polite manner and take notice.
Not all problems are the same, some are easily remedied and some are a little more complicated and often a judgement call needs to be made on the problem and the person asking for the solution.
 
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Another easy answer is to look at the 800+ thanks pressed for the above poster.

That's the possibility of 800+ separate posts on electrical works that have had the guidance to be done correctly.

So restricting the site is a silly idea, electrics cover a wide range of diy abled tasks. It's seldom a op get told to seek advice compared to the volume that are given the correct answer to a problem.

The site isn't all new circuits, cu changes and major works. There's plenty on lighting, switches, simple issues and the like that can be resolved by post response.

I'm quite proud that sometimes I help people out, and that is in part a driver for most of the posters here offering help and assistance.

So that should be restricted :eek:
 
I would still check the pull switch for any signs of thermal damage. If you have a loss of supply to the shower then I would firstly eliminate any weak spots on the circuit. These would be the connections in the pull switch, shower its self, the cu and any other possible joints you may have. If you are not competent in doing this then call an electrician.

Vibro would you just be checking the pullswitch for thermal damage??As i would also be checking for the possibilty of mechanical failure ie open circuit across one or more terminals.
 
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You sure the water is getting to it? Think they have a safety feature to shut them off if no water pressure

It would appear in the end it was the water, I had over tightened the olive and it was restricting the water.

Irs working now, the neon on the pull switch has also stopped acting up. Now to put your minds at ease, I will get the switch checked over by a spark.
 
I would still check the pull switch for any signs of thermal damage. If you have a loss of supply to the shower then I would firstly eliminate any weak spots on the circuit. These would be the connections in the pull switch, shower its self, the cu and any other possible joints you may have. If you are not competent in doing this then call an electrician.

Vibro would you just be checking the pullswitch for thermal damage??As i would also be checking for the possibilty of mechanical failure ie open circuit across one or more terminals.

If like the op and you did not have a tester then how would you check that the contacts were opening and closing the circuit? I have merely given visual inspections and nothing that would require a test instrument. Just hearing for and feeling the click will not indicate the correct operation of the switch. Also why have you just mentioned the operational impact of the switch and not the MCB? Lack of mechanical integrity is just as vital between all switches within the circuit and any of these could be at fault, wouldn't you agree.
 
Indeed but as you stated both are irrelevant without a tester.
However your post is naive stating the fact that you would only be searching for thermal damage.
And thinking about it in some cases a mechanical fault within an mcb/rcd can be obvious without a tester.
I have lost count of the numbers of shower or any pullswitch i have changed due to the pullswitch jamming which didnt require the use of a tester to verify fault.
 
I always read the website name as meaning DI why not (with a question mark)
 

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