No thermostat?

Cheers CBW you’re being really helpful. I just don’t get the boiler bit. I’ve had the hot water ‘off’ since I moved in and it’s worked fine (ie just fires up when we run a hot tap) which is how I thought combi boilers work but I obviously need to read up more on how they work re oil.
 
Sponsored Links
Cheers CBW you’re being really helpful. I just don’t get the boiler bit. I’ve had the hot water ‘off’ since I moved in and it’s worked fine (ie just fires up when we run a hot tap) which is how I thought combi boilers work but I obviously need to read up more on how they work re oil.
 
No need it is very simple really and we are happy to help you along, your easiest bet is a dual channel hive, no wiring just lift the old one off the back plate and put the new hive on takes seconds and a few set up things , nothing hard about it , well apart from dealing with bloody Hive , they can be a nightmare, but you will get that no matter who installs it
That’s seems easiest doesn’t it! Then just leave hot water on constant?
 
Sponsored Links
That’s seems easiest doesn’t it! Then just leave hot water on constant?
The Hive dual channel would replace the programmer, and therefore replace all existing hot water timing periods onto the Hive. I think you’re getting confused with what Ian said before about leaving the heating on constant - which would be the case if you left the existing programmer in, and just fitted a Hive single channel receiver and thermostat.
 
That’s seems easiest doesn’t it! Then just leave hot water on constant?

Sorry by this I meant on the new Hive controller.

So just to clarify - on my existing Honeywell controller I really should have the hot water setting on constant? Even though it's a combi boiler?

Then going forward I need the dual controller Hive and again, set the hot water to constant on that too?

It's just the hot water bit I'm confused about. With never having had a oil combi boiler before ;)

Thanks again lads.
 
When you switch hot water to 'on' on the timer, does the blue light come on the boiler and it fire up?

isolate the power to the boiler and programmer, remove the programmer by loosening the two screws underneath and take a picture of the wiring and post it.
 
Here you go!

F6D5E51A-7E96-405B-84FE-139747F4A11D.jpeg 0F76AD1F-8C6E-45E9-ABCC-582EF4EA69E8.jpeg
 
just connect the wires exactly as they are to the hive dual channel same numbers same colours, oil combis are slightly different to gas combis in that the oile combi will have a small thermal store, hence why it can be timed
 
Thanks everyone. Dual controller installed fine.

Couple of questions:

1) What setting do I use for hot water then? Constant on? Or just put it on a timer? Not really sure how this works in connection with the boiler being a combi (albeit oil).

2) I have no idea if I need 'gravity fed mode' or if I just leave it on fully 'pumped mode' - how can I tell?

Cheers!
 
Fully pumped, gravity is for tank and no pump. Set it on a timer if that’s how you’re currently setup?
 
Fully pumped, gravity is for tank and no pump. Set it on a timer if that’s how you’re currently setup?

Cheers CBW. Have no idea how it was set before I moved in :( With it providing hot water on demand I'm really not sure which setting to put it on!
 
The HW timer is simply to stop the boiler firing to heat the store , when you are sleeping for example, wasting fuel and noise nuicance, lots dont have a timed function for the HW and it is always on, gas combis are much faster at heating water from cold that is why the seldom have a timer facility
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top