Noisy hot water system - Any ideas? (includes pictures)

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Turn off your boiler one night so it does not start the next morning.

Next day, climb up into your loft and sit by the small feed and expansion tank with a torch. Get someone to turn on the boiler. Does water (or air) flow into the f&e tank? Is there thick brown mud at the bottom?
 
Turn off your boiler one night so it does not start the next morning.

Next day, climb up into your loft and sit by the small feed and expansion tank with a torch. Get someone to turn on the boiler. Does water (or air) flow into the f&e tank? Is there thick brown mud at the bottom?

Thanks
We did this this morning.

No sludge it's clear
No water flowing, but a tiny bit of air

The pipe is not in the water though is this correct? It sits above the water level
 
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X800 is good product, but use with caution. You cannot leave it in the system, you also cannot drain down and expect residual evacuation of the chemical. Removal of all traces of X800 is mandatory else it will have cleaned your system and will kill your pump also

Getting the faulty rad changed might effect a cure if the perforations/ weakness is leading to air ingress.
 
X800 is good product, but use with caution. You cannot leave it in the system, you also cannot drain down and expect residual evacuation of the chemical. Removal of all traces of X800 is mandatory else it will have cleaned your system and will kill your pump also

Getting the faulty rad changed might effect a cure if the perforations/ weakness is leading to air ingress.


I've been reading all about x800 and I have decided x400 is better for my system and seems a bit kinder

So I will use that
 
With that layout of that pipework and with the symptoms you've described I would still stand by replacing the manual vent with an aav.

As a test, tomorrow morning when the noise is happening, operate the manual vent. If you get air then an aav will sort the noise.

I would also look at replacig the pin holed rads, which as suggested, could be where the air is coming from way before you look at treating the system.

Ted
 
With that layout of that pipework and with the symptoms you've described I would still stand by replacing the manual vent with an aav.

As a test, tomorrow morning when the noise is happening, operate the manual vent. If you get air then an aav will sort the noise.

I would also look at replacig the pin holed rads, which as suggested, could be where the air is coming from way before you look at treating the system.

Ted

Thanks Ted
Is there a higher quality auto vent valve or one which will never leak?

Read a few reviews on that screw fix one which were negative

Radiators are being replaced as recommended

Just wondered if a valve existed which would auto close to avoid leaks
 
Kitted up, AAV is a stock item in my van, 5 of 3/8" and two half inch ones. Where do you get yours that don't leak:cautious:

Sound advice about air vent would be a radiator type that needs vent key to purge
 
Kitted up, AAV is a stock item in my van, 5 of 3/8" and two half inch ones. Where do you get yours that don't leak:cautious:

Sound advice about air vent would be a radiator type that needs vent key to purge

Are you saying you have problems with them leaking?

Are the radiator valves like Aladdin better than these?

Thankd
 
On an open system there often isn't enough pressure to force the valve shut again. All it takes is a small bit of dirt and it'll start weeping a bit (usually doesn't pour out).
 
I think the Altecnic Robocal AAV is good. Always keep the black screw in place unless you think there's air to purge (ie don't lose it).
 
I think the Altecnic Robocal AAV is good. Always keep the black screw in place unless you think there's air to purge (ie don't lose it).
You don't say Sherlock. Voice of experience I take it:rolleyes:
 

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