Offset pan connectors

[scubapete]

So, I'm planning on getting some bathroom furniture - vanity and WC unit with a back to wall pan.

When everything is installed, I estimate the centre of the pan spigot to be 50-70mm to the right of the centre of the soil pipe (tricky operating a tape measure accurately behind an existing toilet).

The soil pipe extends 170mm from the wall and is (I think) cast iron as its a 1939 house with an external stack.

The wc unit is 305mm depth.

All the offset connectors I've seen offer small offsets (18mm) although I have seen a 100mm one on Multikwik website, but not for sale anywhere yet.

What are my options?

The existing toilet has loads of putty (?) applied around the join. Am I going to have trouble getting a push fit offset connector to 'bite'?

 

[Softus]

I don't have sufficient brain power to work out the distance over which the offset of 50-70mm is to be accommodated.

If long enough, you might get away with a flexible connector - as horrible a solution as this is, sometimes you just ain't dun got no other option.

 

[John M]

Anyone seen those Yankee style Bogs here that exit directly down wards....

Ya rig up a pipe to meet it underneath & buy a ring of goo to sit the loo on to make the seal & screw it down ...... Brilliant idea ...... W00t No visable Pipes ?

 

[John M]

Could replace the cast stack with plastic & put a dogs leg in it ...... That would free you up some workin' room

Plastic pipe ain't that dear is it

 

[scubapete]

Replacing the soil pipe (or section of) seems a bit like overkill.

Found this very useful previous topic: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=661717#661717

1) The collar at the end of the soil pipe becomes redundant when using multikwik style connectors? These connect to the 3.5 inch soil pipe not the collar, right? The collar was an olden times method of joining pipes?

2) (Showing my ignorance) Does the spigot on a back-to-the-wall pan extend beyond the pan? i.e. when I have the pan flush against the unit will the spigot extend through the hole in the unit?

3) Why do you say flexible connectors are bad? It will be hidden in a unit, so is it down to performance?

I'm thinking there might be enough space to use 2 x 90 degree bends. So:

4) Do these push-fit type connectors really need to be wedged up against something to stop them popping off? If I were to replace the toilet exactly where it stands and use a straight connector it would be wedged between the soil pipe and the pan. 2 x 90 degree or a flexible connector would not be wedged against anything.