Oil boiler on lockout after new motor fitted
- Thread starter Ashtara
- Start date
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Check that when the burner was put back together once the new motor was fitted that nothing is fouling the fan, or that the fan itself has not been pushed too far onto the spindle and preventing it from firing. After all those bits having been changed, I'd check ignition transformer, electrodes and leads. Last thermecon I had with those symptoms was the ignition leads.....
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So having had lockout for 3 mornings on the trot since new motor fitted, this morning started up without a hitch.
Oh what a puzzle
For the record, the boiler has had new nozzle, new control box, new oil pump, new electrodes and now new motor, all since Feb 2012. Each time the new bit fixes it for a few months then off again
Aaaaaaaarrrrrggghhhhh
Oh what a puzzle
For the record, the boiler has had new nozzle, new control box, new oil pump, new electrodes and now new motor, all since Feb 2012. Each time the new bit fixes it for a few months then off again
Aaaaaaaarrrrrggghhhhh
The clue must come from your statement that on non start up, the burner just emits a humming noise - which to me is simply the motor not spinning up to speed so either its jammed (pump, fan) or its faulty or the capacitor isn't doing its job.
If the motor does start to spin and then it goes to lockout then we look for something else.
John
If the motor does start to spin and then it goes to lockout then we look for something else.
John
Well, I've never had a dud new motor, but I have had a few with bizarre faults......example one would start up every time, but had so little power that the spindle could be stopped with the fingers.....
Others have had capacitor faults which from time to time the cap would fail, and the motor wouldn't know which way to spin.
Post back after the engineers been, if you will!
(At least its not freezing cold now )
John
Others have had capacitor faults which from time to time the cap would fail, and the motor wouldn't know which way to spin.
Post back after the engineers been, if you will!
(At least its not freezing cold now
)John
Ok engineer came having spoken to both oftec and the manufacturer.
We had a long chat and although they suggested moving the tiger loop from below the boiler to above or next to the pump, He thinks as you do John, that the motor is bedding in with the pump.
He has had to slacken off the bolts on the pump to allow it to find its right setting and the spindle in the pump to settle in then he will come and tighten the bolts over time once pump is settled.
He said the fan is working fine.
He also pointed out that if the built in no return valve on the tiger loop was at fault there would be no oil in the tiger loop and that has always remained at a constant level with no signs of bubbles etc.
So for now we will see how it goes.
We had a long chat and although they suggested moving the tiger loop from below the boiler to above or next to the pump, He thinks as you do John, that the motor is bedding in with the pump.
He has had to slacken off the bolts on the pump to allow it to find its right setting and the spindle in the pump to settle in then he will come and tighten the bolts over time once pump is settled.
He said the fan is working fine.
He also pointed out that if the built in no return valve on the tiger loop was at fault there would be no oil in the tiger loop and that has always remained at a constant level with no signs of bubbles etc.
So for now we will see how it goes.
Motor bedding in. I smell a strong smell of bull there.
Working non return valve and it will work.
No need for the tiger loop HRM boilers work in this setup without a problem.
Bed in the pump? My ar**
A pound to a penny, he's used the old drive dog on the pump and the new motor takes a different one. It will run with the pump loose, but this will wear the shaft seal. When the pump is tightened up again, the too long drive coupling will tighten up again and you'll have the same problem.
A pound to a penny, he's used the old drive dog on the pump and the new motor takes a different one. It will run with the pump loose, but this will wear the shaft seal. When the pump is tightened up again, the too long drive coupling will tighten up again and you'll have the same problem.
Is this the Ecoflam Minor 4 burner, chaps?
John
John
Just from what I remember, the Ecoflam burners have the oil pump (BFP11 R3) fixed to the back of the motor, and there is a small plastic connecting dog between the two - I've never known one of those to fail.
The pumps are secured by 3 grub screws that bear onto a slot in the pump body....these should be tightened evenly and not fully, even though the pump should remain central in the motor boss.
Where are we at, proceeding wise? Has the new motor been fitted, and how easy is it to turn the oil pump?
John
The pumps are secured by 3 grub screws that bear onto a slot in the pump body....these should be tightened evenly and not fully, even though the pump should remain central in the motor boss.
Where are we at, proceeding wise? Has the new motor been fitted, and how easy is it to turn the oil pump?
John
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