Oil Boiler Won't fire after service

[Adam2050]

The normal f0 263. Is displayed after a burner lock out. This has been the normal thing when I switch it off at the wall after a burnout lock.

I went to the normal as it had been sitting for 8 months with no real oil in the tank and crud on the bottom, I bled it on the oil burner and out came some green goop pretty rubbery, this is post service as the gentlemen that serviced it had it running, but I warned it had been sitting for a long while.

Now it goes to start up initiates the green light then stops after about 2-10 seconds. Displays the 9f 855 error which normally points to air or crud in the system.

I've checked the lines, the water pressure, the light sensor which is clean, I've check the electrodes and looked at the nozzle but nothings coming up like obvious. I'm not an engineer as you can tell. Just learning as we go with a mechanical background.

I've got it perfectly clean, the engineers claiming it worked so unlikely to be a fault he's caused, but my question is, has the new nozzle likely to have clogged so quickly within a 2 week period with the system only being asked to do trickle heating? There was a fair bit of rust and what can only be described as muddy slime that came out before it went clear. When on I couldn't get real air, and pressure appeared to be fine when bleeding like it would spray you in the face at the right turn of the bleeder valve when initiating burn.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Adam2050]

bump

 

[oilhead]

Have you had a delivery of oil since the service? If so, you may have disturbed the sediment in the tank and sucked this through. You need to thoroughly purge the oil supply from the tank, through any filters (cleaning/replacing them ) and not forgetting the filter in the pump. All this should be done before bleeding the fuel from the bleed screw, which should be done withot the burner running.

 

[dilalio]

As above. Full purge of oil line and filters. Green goop sounds like more left behind and making it's way downstream.

 

[Adam2050]

Have you had a delivery of oil since the service? If so, you may have disturbed the sediment in the tank and sucked this through. You need to thoroughly purge the oil supply from the tank, through any filters (cleaning/replacing them ) and not forgetting the filter in the pump. All this should be done before bleeding the fuel from the bleed screw, which should be done withot the burner running.

What filter in the pump where is it?
Mines a Worcester system.

Would need to do some research on how you change the filters externally without loosing your oil

 

[dilalio]

What filter in the pump where is it?
Mines a Worcester system.

Would need to do some research on how you change the filters externally without loosing your oil

Whereas @oilhead doesn't need to do research.

 

[Adam2050]

Not sure if that's a dig or a compliment to oilheax

Oils clear after many runs.
Saw a trick of someone pulling air out of the system with a brake caliper style siphon. But there's enough pressure with the oil line open to push fluid directly out of bleeder.

My only thought now is taking the nozzle off inspecting and cleaning the one looked gunky.

 

[Rodders53]

I suspect it's time to call back the service man. i.e. a Professional.

When we got water in the oil tank it wrecked the pump. New bunded tank was also needed to replace the single skin plastic. Oil was separated from water and stored in barrels for the duration.

Your description of the fuel is such that I suspect it is contaminated by water and microbial growth (emulsion / sludge). Apparently quite common. A random google find: https://www.beesleyfuels.co.uk/news/microbial-fuel-contamination-symptoms/ is worth a quick read?

I suspect the tank needs drained and cleaned thoroughly to remove all contamination... along with a clean of filters/housings and fuel lines. New kerosene added since moving in might be salvageable (not my forte, need an expert).

 

[Adam2050]

I suspect it's time to call back the service man. i.e. a Professional.

When we got water in the oil tank it wrecked the pump. New bunded tank was also needed to replace the single skin plastic. Oil was separated from water and stored in barrels for the duration.

Your description of the fuel is such that I suspect it is contaminated by water and microbial growth (emulsion / sludge). Apparently quite common. A random google find: https://www.beesleyfuels.co.uk/news/microbial-fuel-contamination-symptoms/ is worth a quick read?

I suspect the tank needs drained and cleaned thoroughly to remove all contamination... along with a clean of filters/housings and fuel lines. New kerosene added since moving in might be salvageable (not my forte, need an expert).

Don't disagree with the sentiment.

After watching this, and taking the nozzle off and running it again. I suspect the nozzles already sucked in the sediment left in the line and ate itself internally.

I see no signs of water currently at all, though the tank is in need of replacement, and has been running for five years in it's current state setup with minimal fuss. It could be that as the system sat for 8-10 months its shifted whatever moisture to the bottom along with the gunk and found its way down destroying this nozzle within a few days, from the run time of that video above it's exactly what it does. Runs then cuts out, and it's spraying fuel into the system as I can see it in the burner chamber and will clean that out before running with the fresh nozzle.

The tank will be replaced (Bunded) in the summer and I will replace filters on the line while were there or a professional with more modern stuff and increase redundancy as there are two filters on it and ideally I've been told 3 or more.

But like I've said it's running but cutting out, which suggests to me a burn issue, as pressures there's it's just been calibrated/serviced. The only thing that's gone on is crap came out, is now clear, and the new nozzle is the only change bar the calibration. Logically to me it suggests here's where it lies. If I can't get it running post that then I will call a professional back.

The more I watch and learn about them, the seem more simple then a modern diesel engine.

 

[Johntheo5]

I'm a bit surprised that the nozzle destroyed itself so rapidly, nozzles (at least the danfoss ones) have a extremely fine sintered filter screwen on the end and it is pretty heavy walled as well, I cut one open years ago, attached.

 

[Adam2050]

I'm a bit surprised that the nozzle destroyed itself so rapidly, nozzles (at least the danfoss ones) have a extremely fine sintered filter screwen on the end and it is pretty heavy walled as well, I cut one open years ago, attached.

We will find out soon enough I could be completely wrong.

But is it a possibility it was a miss mold or the things just still clogged. Or just the pressure sucked in enough gunk to change the spray pattern?

I was thinking of sticking in a bath of fuel in a ultrasonic cleaner?

 

[Rodders53]

Water and the emulsion sits in the bottom of the tank (unless disturbed)... Kerosene is lighter than water. Take-off is low down and allows for some gunk/water at bottom... until that water rises too high.

One can get paste to test for water level in tanks

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and sponges etc.,. to absorb water in the tank bottom for removal e.g. https://www.fueldump.co.uk/product/tank-sponge/

Other retailers of the same or similar products are available.

 

[Adam2050]

I've had a tank sponge in, never had any of much in it bar fuel.