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" George Steer in London
APRIL 23 2023
A lack of rain in Spain has pushed prices for olive oil to record levels, with analysts warning that a particularly dry summer could lead to even lower crop yields later this year.
Olive oil prices have surged almost 60 per cent since June to roughly €5.4 per kilogramme, on the back of a severe drought in Europe that last year ruined olive crops across the continent.Spain, the largest olive oil producer, was hit particularly hard.
The country’s farmers typically produce half of the world’s olive oil, though annual supplies have roughly halved to about 780,000 tonnes in the past 12 months."
FT.com
According to the AEMET weather agency, accumulated rainfall since October 1 has been 25 percent lower than normal across Spain and 50 percent lower in most of Andalusia, where reservoirs are at 25 percent capacity. And the situation worsened at the end of April, when an early heatwave brought exceptionally high temperatures that saw the mercury hit 38.8 degrees Celsius (101.8 degrees Fahrenheit) in southern Spain.
"This happened as the olive trees were in bloom," says Rafael Pico, director of Asoliva, the Spanish association of olive oil producers and exporters, who fears the blooms will dry up. "If there are no flowers, there's no fruit. And if there's no fruit, there's no oil."
For Spain—which normally supplies 50 percent of the world's olive oil and exports close to 3.0 billion euros ($3.3 billion) worth every year—the situation is even more worrying given the sector's disastrous output in 2021-2022. During that season too, a lack of rain and extreme temperatures saw olive oil production plummeting 55 percent to 660,000 tonnes, compared to 1.48 million tonnes in 2021-2022, agriculture ministry figures show.
In recent months, the price of oil has jumped. "In mid-April, olive oil was selling at 5,800 euros ($6,400) per tonne, up from 5,300 euros in January," says Fanny de Gasquet of Baillon Intercor, a brokerage firm specialising in oils and fats.
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I'm trying Spanish oil for a change: 'La Espanola' infused with white truffle oil. The aroma of truffles is very strong and not to everyone's taste but the flavour is subtle on salad, and brings out the full taste if you use it for frying. I could get used to it but the price for 250ml is £7.50, while my usual Felipo Berio is £3.25 for the same amount. Italian oil is richer and i prefer it to line the bread tin so the dough doesn't stick during baking.
The best olive oil, as far as i'm concerned, is Greek. Try
Odysea olive oil and you'll feel the difference when you taste it: green, almost grassy; fresh as a Nereids kiss. Depending where you buy it can cost up to £10 for a 500ml bottle but you really won't regret it.
Always buy olive oil in a dark bottle and never, ever, buy blended oil.