Open vented system, No HW or CH, BAXI 80HE boiler shows Ignition Lockout after tried to start a few times

[terryplumb]

The section of pipework would need to be cut out and replaced.
You could try the magnet you already have.
Another way to see if it's a blockage would be to attach a hose to a drain cock on the heating system and drain water out ,if the feed is blocked the level in the f&e will not drop / replenish the system .

 

[fandyman]

Makes sense - thanks for the advice re checking the blockage and unblocking.

If it turns out it is not blocked is there anything else that could cause it?

 

[terryplumb]

From what you have told us ,the boiler is firing up ,so the control gear (programmer,thermostat, motorised valve etc) is functioning,albeit in part.
If the system is full of water and not being pumped around ,then the pump ,and a blockage would be first things to rule out.
A problem inside the boiler is far less likely.

 

[fandyman]

Thanks. I ordered some strong magnets so will carry out the test tomorrow and post back.

The only other thing that makes me wonder is the 3 port diverter valve making the loud bang when moving the spindle. It does about mid way through when moving it both ways. Would you know why that is?

 

[terryplumb]

If it is definitely the valve itself it must have excessive wear ,in the gearing probably.

 

[fandyman]

I managed to find a strong magnet and it was not attaching anywhere on the feed pipework, but... and this is really strange now, after changing the pump to CCII at 20W (from CCIII at 45W) and leaving it for about 5 minutes (no other change there) boiler fired up and stayed on! The valve was left in mid position and the A and B pipe are warm again.

What could be the issue?

 

[fandyman]

The only thing I can think of is that diverter valve blocking the flow and after changing the pump speed it being unblocked?

 

[terryplumb]

Unlikely that the gate ( the part in the brass body of the valve would completely block both outlet ports, something else is amiss. Whatever the cause ,it's likely to to re occur. See how things go.

 

[terryplumb]

There is a vent pipe ,rises up vertically from the pump. The end of it has a thumb screw , you loosen it to bleed any air out and you should get a constant flow of water, careful if heating has been on as water would be hot.

 

[fandyman]

Hi, Thanks. The vent pipe is bled every time I'm in this area of the loft so it has no trapped air at the moment.

 

[fandyman]

And it is back to ignition lockout again...

Running out of ideas on the randomness of the issue.

 

[fandyman]

Anyone has some advice?

Is there any list of test/checks I should be performing to rule out possible issues?

 

[terryplumb]

You have done as much as you can ,time to arrange a site visit from an engineer ,it's looking like a boiler issue.

 

[fandyman]

Ok so the strong magnet I ordered arrived and upon checking the pipework it attracts at the tee off expansion/return to boiler/feed pipe from/to the F&E tank/boiler (see attached).

The boiler is running at the moment as I realised the main problem with no CH was the room stat was satisfied hence no call for heat. Once I raised it a little I noticed continuous work of the boiler.

As for the period of time it was not running over the last few days that in general shows there is a flow issue in the system which manifests itself with the ignition lockout code at the boiler. I take it from the fact I have also noticed significant pipe vibrations and a drop in pumping speed to 13W at CCII when in HW only. I suspect at the time there was not enough flow through the HW system for the boiler to kick in and was going to ignition lockout (I am yet to check the pipework around the coil with the magnet). All in all no issue with the CH side of the pipework.

I have also attached some photos of the 3 port valve actuator head which show the actuator is moving the setting when I change from CH only to CH & HW to HW only. Could anyone confirm this movement is about right (what I mean here is whether the little opening where the spindle goes in is reaching full its full expected range? I checked the spindle manually on the valve body and apart from small tension on one side it moves freely by hand.

All in all I suspect there are a few issues with the system (another one being the downstairs radiators are rusty and leak occasionally which probably leads to air getting in to the system causing blockages) but one main verified at the moment are magnetite in the pipe work where it tees off to boiler and circulation pump. I suspect the other being the incorrect working of the 3 port valve as regardless of the actuator head when I move the spindle manually I always seem to register both A & B super hot at the moment (maybe it is due to the fact I cannot work on a cold system before each test) which makes it suspicious.

 

[Johntheo5]

Can you post the exact model of the pump or/and take a close up photo of the pump label and I can tell you exactly what its circulating through the cylinder coil.