Fit an x plan (pdhw with NO zone valve) then you will need a relay to short the OT terminals when hot water is called for, shorting the cables makes the boiler run at high temp, when the relay opens the OT takes control of the central heating.
Fit an x plan (pdhw with NO zone valve) then you will need a relay to short the OT terminals when hot water is called for, shorting the cables makes the boiler run at high temp, when the relay opens the OT takes control of the central heating.
I would fit a separate 240v hot water timer and put a demand on the dhw thermostat/ zone valve connected to sl2, if the boiler stayed on low temp opentherm then short the OT terminals.
I would fit a separate 240v hot water timer and put a demand on the dhw thermostat/ zone valve connected to sl2, if the boiler stayed on low temp opentherm then short the OT terminals.
The cheapest way is for EPH controls to do it either PDHW or simultaneous reheat at the highest temp called for.
The most expensive is to buy a boiler available with a bolt on accessory that permits up to 4 temperatures, 3 mixed and 1 for DHW .
Thing is you have a working boiler and a control system, both reasonably expensive, what are your expectations for savings and is it money or ecological motivation that makes you considering changing?
Let's say you save 4% of a £2000 heating bill, £80/annum, or 4% fewer CO2 emissions. If either floats your boat then go ahead. If you're warm enough in the winter at the moment it will not be to improve comfort levels (perhaps tighten them a little).
I have never fitted an ideal boiler so will take your word on the SL1-SL2 ignoring the OT but at least I now know how to run a "plan" with opentherm on any boiler.
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