Outlet pipe leaving rusty water patch in back garden UPDATE

[Gasguru]

Once the safety valve has opened (ie if the pressure gets to around 3 Bar) they have a habit of not resealing once the pressure drops. Since it doesn't re-seal the system pressure will then drop down to zero potentially damaging the boiler. Unfortunately the safety valve is located behind the boiler and is no 5 minute fix. I would imagine it's easier to take the boiler off the wall to replace the valve.

That's one good reason to disconnect the filling loop after re-presurising...they are not flexible for nothing.

Looking at the colour of the water the system appears to have suffered severe corrosion (unless the staining was from a previous system). For any hope of long term system reliability the system needs a good cleanout followed by a quality inbitor to prevent ccorrosion.

 

[rezarf]

thanks for all your advice I will gets things moving with regards to the boiler.

I will hope for the best.

Thanks again

Rezarf

 

[rezarf]

just went and tried the filling loop again and barely moved the screw but the pressure gauge has dropped from the small green on the high side down to about 1.5 bar.

Rezarf

 

[rezarf]

checked it this morning and the gauge is sitting at 1bar and the outlet pipe with the rusty water has stopped flowing.

 

[rezarf]

checked the boiler again today and it is still sitting at 1.5 bar and the outlet has stopped pouring out rusty water.

How do I go about cleaning the system out? is this a job I could do myself?

Rezarf

 

[rezarf]

well got someone out and they sorted the problem.

Noisy radiators were due to the inlet/outlet pipes being the wrong way round.

Plus the system needed some major cleaning out very dirty water, the guy said you could drink it now, although not after he put the inhibitor in.

Plus he fitted an soak away and insulated the outside pipe

Untitled

• rezarf
• 21 Jun 2008
• 1

all in £350 to fix the problem, but my heating is now running great no noise and no more rusty water.

Rezarf

 

[twgas]

looks better already, I'd have extended copper down to below air brick, in case it goes again and water runs inside building.

 

[hi1]

Hi, not relevant to the boiler prblem but it appears to me that you have laid a concrete hardstanding up to and possibly above the render bottom edge, there is a danger that you may be bridging the damp proof course which could lead to damp problems in the wall.

 

[rezarf]

so do you think I should extend the outlet pipe so it is away from the wall, maybe runs down onto the concrete?

About the concrete:
As far as I know these are council laid slabs, but I could be wrong. How should I proceed with the matter?