Outside Light

[Jeremy2014]

Hi DIY Expert,

So we are looking to replace the outside light with a sensor one and have come across this model.

11W LED Microwave Ceiling/Wall Light 4000K - Black IP66 | Eterna (SHFULLMWBK)

It is mentionned : Lumens: 1150lm and was curious to understand how bright this was. As we don't want something like floor light but something dim and gentle.

This is the existing switch with switch for the outside light and one for the inside one - I guess we would need to change that switch with something else so that the outside light is always on? (so that the switch does not get accidently switch off?) May I check what would be your recommendation for this? I was looking at switch but unsure what to select -I came across these but these have only one switch and not both and wondering if there is anything else possible that we can get.

Unswitched Fused Spurs

 

[ericmark]

I would use a grid switch with a keyed switch for outside light so if faulty easy to turn off until fixed, an you can still have standard switch for inside, if using a fuse, then again grid switch so again alongside standard switch.

Personally I use a smart switch which turns it on at dusk, off dead of night, and on days milkman visits. I use TP-Link as it will still work with a PIR light.

 

[Jeremy2014]

I would use a grid switch with a keyed switch for outside light View attachment 366085so if faulty easy to turn off until fixed, an you can still have standard switch for inside, if using a fuse, then again grid switch so again alongside standard switch.

Personally I use a smart switch which turns it on at dusk, off dead of night, and on days milkman visits. I use TP-Link as it will still work with a PIR light.

oh amazing!

So a plate like this

2 Module Euro Module Front Plate - White | Scolmore (CMA311)

with a key switch

20A SP 2 Way Secret Key Grid Switch | MK (K4898WHI)

and a normal switch

10A SP 2 Way Grid Switch | MK (K4882WHI)

Thought there are so many different range of switch - any recommendation on which one to go for?

 

[Jeremy2014]

I know I should really get an eletrician to do the job, but I feel with the right advise, I should be able to do it easily. (i know I need to switch off full electricity before to venture closer to touch anything)

I just open the switch as well earlier today and might need further direction on which cable refer to which bit so when I get the grid plate and switch and key, I connect everything properly together.
Any directions, tips welcome

 

[ericmark]

Left hand switch is two way, right hand as shown in picture simple on/off. I used the Screwfix own LAP grid system here to combine a socket, fuse, and switch into one plate. You can basic design what ever you need to suit.

 

[trojanhawrs]

You would need the grid, faceplate, and the switch modules - key switch and 2 way. Other brands are available, stick to one for the whole assembly though. The site linked also lets you know what depth backbox is required, I would guess yours is a 25mm which will be fine for the above - worth double checking though.

 

[Murdochcat]

If you do decide to have a go, even though you have photos make sure you mark clearly any cables where you have 2 or more the same colour

And go for the MK - far more robust and reliable than other makes

And a word of warning that looks like a 25mm back box so don’t be surprised if it’s a very tight squeeze. If you get a spark in get them to fit a 35mm back box

 

[Jeremy2014]

Thanks so much for all the advice and recommendations. Really appreciated.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If the light will be outside, always better to fit a double pole switch, to ensure both L and N are isolated/ can be isolated, in case of faults.

 

[Jeremy2014]

If the light will be outside, always better to fit a double pole switch, to ensure both L and N are isolated/ can be isolated, in case of faults.

Thanks for the feedback, Would the key switch not be the answer to that?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks for the feedback, Would the key switch not be the answer to that?

Depends. If it has four terminals, and the neutral passes through the switch, then it can be isolated.

Idea is - if water should get in the light, or external lighting circuit, it can cause an RCD/RCBO protected circuit to trip. A double pole means of isolation, allows the faulty circuit to be completely isolated, just isolating via a single pole, would not help - the rest of the lighting on the same circuit, can then remain in use, until the fault can be investigated. It also makes fault-finding, much easier. The alternative, is to either manage without the rest of the lighting on the circuit, or investigate the problem immediately.

 

[trojanhawrs]

dp key switch

 

[flameport]

lumens: 1150lm and was curious to understand how bright this was.

For an outside light in a porch, that is massive overkill.
It's also 4000K which is what's usually called 'neutral white' which may not be what you want either.

but something dim and gentle.

400 lumens and 2700K would be more appropriate.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

dp key switch

Always assuming, of course, that the neutral passes through the switch.

 

[blup]

1150 far too much.