Outside PIR floodlight question

[Bunford]

I have just purchased a new house and at the rear of the property there is one of those typical outside floodlights with PIR sensor. It doesn't appear to be working and as I have a Blink camera with a floodlight mount, this light already on the property is not needed.

The grey cable comes out of the back of the floodlight and goes into the wall, but there is no trace of the cable anywhere else's, and so I have no idea where it is wired to.

Is there any way to find out, and am I able to cut the cable and re-render of it to fill the hole, in effect burning the bare end of the cable in the wall?

Photos in this post: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/outside-pir-floodlight-question.634492/page-2#post-5812430

 

[ericmark]

I would start at the consumer unit (CU)

what stops outside lights working, turning off sockets or lights. In the main we use a switched fused connection unit (FCU) for outside lights, so they can be isolated if water gets in. However mine are on a 4 gang switch with upper and lower floor landing and hall lights.

It would seem odd to have no way to turn off outside lights.

 

[Bunford]

I would start at the consumer unit (CU) View attachment 354549 what stops outside lights working, turning off sockets or lights. In the main we use a switched fused connection unit (FCU) for outside lights, View attachment 354550so they can be isolated if water gets in. However mine are on a 4 gang switch with upper and lower floor landing and hall lights.

It would seem odd to have no way to turn off outside lights.

The only fuse switched off in the CU is for the home alarm system (which I have no idea in codes as it's old and something I also want to remove). The floodlight doesn't appear to work though, so it may be the alarm fuse in the CU, but I can't test without also setting off the alarm siren as I have no idea how to turn the alarm off.

There is also no FCU or switch that I can see anywhere near the floodlight, or any other switch that could be for turning it on or off.

 

[ericmark]

I use a non contact voltage range on my tester to see if any power, both my testers have the function, there are cheaper testers all which should show if there is power without undoing screws, lids etc. Clearly one would confirm with leads, but to start with this shows if there is a line supply.

It may be as simple as a blown bulb, so start with the simple tests. Outside lights are notorious for getting water ingress, so being able to switch off is important. I know my home buyers report included where switches and fuses had been found, is there anything in that, or the EICR (electrical installation condition report) also normally alarms also have a FCU although likely not switched, near the alarm box.

 

[Bunford]

I use a non contact voltage range on my tester View attachment 354561View attachment 354562 to see if any power, both my testers have the function, there are cheaper testers View attachment 354563all which should show if there is power without undoing screws, lids etc. Clearly one would confirm with leads, but to start with this shows if there is a line supply.

It may be as simple as a blown bulb, so start with the simple tests. Outside lights are notorious for getting water ingress, so being able to switch off is important. I know my home buyers report included where switches and fuses had been found, is there anything in that, or the EICR (electrical installation condition report) also normally alarms also have a FCU although likely not switched, near the alarm box.

Thanks for this! The alarm control hub in the hallway does have a fuse box next it, but not sure if the floodlight is on this circuit or not?!?!

 

[Bunford]

I have just discovered a 4 way light switch in the basement and the 4th and last of them switches turns on and off the floodlight, which I've confirmed with a volt stick on the grey cable coming out of the wall and into the floodlight when the switch is on/off.

Is it safe for me to:

1. Turn off basement lights fuse in CU
2. Snip the cable and wrap end with electrical tape
3. Remove floodlight unit
4. Push cable with taped end back into the wall
5. Cover with Soudal Repair Express and then paint over
6. Install new Blink Floodlight Mount over top of patched area
7. Turn basement lights fuse in CU back on

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The grey cable comes out of the back of the floodlight and goes into the wall, but there is no trace of the cable anywhere else's, and so I have no idea where it is wired to.

Start by working out, which actual circuit it is connected to. A handy device for this, is a volt-stick, which will light up when the tip is placed near a cable which is live. Try it first around known to be live cables, to get the hang of it.

Next, try it where your cable comes through the wall - if it lights up, then you can turning the MCB's/RCBO's off one at a time, until it goes off. At least then, you will know which circuit it is connected to. You might then be able to trace it further, to an indoor switch.

If instead, it doesn't light up next to that cable, you will need to locate where it's switch is.

If there is no obvious cable where it comes indoors, chances are, it comes in between floors/under floor boards, or into the loft space..

 

[Bunford]

Start by working out, which actual circuit it is connected to. A handy device for this, is a volt-stick, which will light up when the tip is placed near a cable which is live. Try it first around known to be live cables, to get the hang of it.

Next, try it where your cable comes through the wall - if it lights up, then you can turning the MCB's/RCBO's off one at a time, until it goes off. At least then, you will know which circuit it is connected to. You might then be able to trace it further, to an indoor switch.

If instead, it doesn't light up next to that cable, you will need to locate where it's switch is.

If there is no obvious cable where it comes indoors, chances are, it comes in between floors/under floor boards, or into the loft space..

Thanks for this. I think you were typing your reply as I posted my last post. I've traced it now but wondering how to remove safely.

 

[EFLImpudence]

1. Turn off basement lights fuse in CU
2. Snip the cable and wrap end with electrical tape

Disconnect the cable at its other end.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks for this. I think you were typing your reply as I posted my last post. I've traced it now but wondering how to remove safely.

Don't snip the cable - disconnect it from the switch, and pull it completely out of the switch, then recheck after powering back up, that it is now definitely dead. Do likewise at the light itself, then you can safely remove it. Either snip off, tape up and or push the cable back into the hole in the wall.

 

[Murdochcat]

I have just discovered a 4 way light switch in the basement and the 4th and last of them switches turns on and off the floodlight, which I've confirmed with a volt stick on the grey cable coming out of the wall and into the floodlight when the switch is on/off.

Is it safe for me to:

1. Turn off basement lights fuse in CU
2. Snip the cable and wrap end with electrical tape
3. Remove floodlight unit
4. Push cable with taped end back into the wall
5. Cover with Soudal Repair Express and then paint over
6. Install new Blink Floodlight Mount over top of patched area
7. Turn basement lights fuse in CU back on

Absolutely NOT.

The only safe way to isolate is at the supply end OR turn off complete consumer unit, cut the cable near the existing floodlight, safely terminate in an IP enclosure like a Wiska 308 . Then turn CU back on.

As for the alarm - sooner or later you need to address this - best before it goes off in the middle of the night and wakes all your neighbours up.

 

[Bunford]

Absolutely NOT.

The only safe way to isolate is at the supply end OR turn off complete consumer unit, cut the cable near the existing floodlight, safely terminate in an IP enclosure like a Wiska 308 . Then turn CU back on.

As for the alarm - sooner or later you need to address this - best before it goes off in the middle of the night and wakes all your neighbours up.

Thanks!

On the switch end, how do I know which of the cables is the floodlight cables? If its the 4th switch of the 4 on the switch panel, is there an easy way to identify?

I do actually have a post in the Alarms thread seeking advice to address the ADae Optima Compact alarm unit but yet to get any replies.

 

[Bunford]

Don't snip the cable - disconnect it from the switch, and pull it completely out of the switch, then recheck after powering back up, that it is now definitely dead. Do likewise at the light itself, then you can safely remove it. Either snip off, tape up and or push the cable back into the hole in the wall.

How can I easily identify which cable is the one from the floodlight to disconnect from the switch?

 

[Bunford]

Disconnect the cable at its other end.

Thanks. I assume you mean from the switch end then?

 

[Murdochcat]

Thanks. I assume you mean from the switch end then?

Do you know where this is?