So does that mean my only solution is to buy a junction box, turn off all CU, snip the cable, terminate in the junction box, and then attach it to the wall, then turn CU back on?
And if that's the case, would something like this do the job?
Outside PIR floodlight question
- Thread starter Bunford
- Start date
And if that's the case, would something like this do the job?
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So what's the best option in this case to be able to remove the floodlight?
If I take down the light fixture nearest it, would it give any hints, as there are 2 light fixtures in the room where the patio door is, as you can see in the first pic a couple of posts ago showing where the switches are in relation to the patio door the floodlights sits above?
So what's the alternative to burying them into the wall in this case?
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Well - it has all been said.
You must have an enclosure on the wall or find the other end of the cable and disconnect it.
You must have an enclosure on the wall or find the other end of the cable and disconnect it.
As a quick solution, yes, with the cable entering via the bottom. Longer term, then I would want to find where that neutral originates, disconnect it, and do away with that box on the wall.
Just been thinking, how would I identify if the neutral is connected behind the sockets or in one of the light fixtures?
Is there any way of detecting with a volt stick or similar if I turn on the switch for the floodlight and have everything else switched off?
I contacted a local electrician who said they can come and remove it all for a ball park £80-100 and asked about access from above, leading me to think that they suspect it may be in the light fixtures, or that he is wanting to remove the whole cable and think he can access and pull it up from above.
Is there any way of detecting with a volt stick or similar if I turn on the switch for the floodlight and have everything else switched off?
I contacted a local electrician who said they can come and remove it all for a ball park £80-100 and asked about access from above, leading me to think that they suspect it may be in the light fixtures, or that he is wanting to remove the whole cable and think he can access and pull it up from above.
Yes, with everything off except the light, and supposing a load of some sort were added, in place of that none working light - Then a clamp-meter, would be able to identify any neutrals, through which there was current flowing.
What???
You ought to limit yourself, to dishing out advice which is valid advice!
Wrong again, but don't let that put you off, keep guessing..
Apologies for the recent noise, the mods seem to have silenced it for now...
The neutral, should correctly be sourced, if it has been installed properly, from the very same source and MCB, as the one which supplies the light. Which means it should be connected to the neutral, of your cellar circuit. If it is (wrongly) connected to the neutral, borrowed from a different circuit, then it is called a borrowed neutral.
The borrowed neutral, if it is borrowed, would not be obvious at the moment, due to all your circuits appearing to be fed from a single RCD, and individual MCB's. If in the future, the RCD + MCB's are upgraded to RCBO's, a combined RCD + MCB, one per circuit, then you will suffer tripping of the RCBO's, due to the borrowed neutral.
It obviously not connected to that socket, in the photo, but there is an issue with that socket - the amount of debris. The debris, might - I said might, cause a low value on an insulation test of the installation, should it become damp. Were it me, I would turn the power to the socket off, and see if I could clean it out with the hose of a vac., and maybe the use of a paint brush.
The socket debris isn't a problem for me. Like I said earlier, we have only just purchased and moved into the house and doing some of the initial renovations, such as painting, flooring, and removing random things like this floodlight. Once decorated, all sockets and switches and light fixtures are going to be changed to ones we prefer and more decorative ones than the standard plastic white ones here at the moment. Therefore, all sockets and switches will have any debris and dust cleared out at that stage.
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