Oven tripping RCD intermittently.

Yes but the 'stated wattage' comment was replying to your query regarding the light bulb, i.e. 100W incandescents are not 576Ω when cold. Presumably they are when hot. How hot do they get?
Extremely hot - IIRC between 2,500 and 4,500 °C. Per my previous calculations, that means that the 'operating resistance' (e.g. 576Ω in your above example) would be (roughly) between 11 and 19 times the resistance at room temperature - i.e. your 576Ω resistance at operating temp would correspond to between 30Ω and 52Ω at room temperature (aka between 1017W and 1763W at 230V).

Kind Regards, John
 
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Spot on-ish. 42Ω on one just measured.
Oooh - it's gratifying to see sums actually working for once :) So, were we to apply the convention you suggest for cooker elements, I guess what you're looking at would be a 1.26 kW lamp :)

I guess what we now need is for someone to measure the resistance of a (cold) cooker element or two for us!

Kind Regards, John
 
you're looking at would be a 1.26 kW lamp :)
Enough to keep you warm.

I guess what we now need is for someone to measure the resistance of a (cold) cooker element or two for us!
No need for that, they (and immersions and showers) are more or less what you would expect for the stated ratings.
 
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you're looking at would be a 1.26 kW lamp :)
Enough to keep you warm.
- maybe, but only for a fraction of a second!
I guess what we now need is for someone to measure the resistance of a (cold) cooker element or two for us!
No need for that, they (and immersions and showers) are more or less what you would expect for the stated ratings.
Fair enough - so I presume you're saying that you have undertaken such measurements?

Of course, in comparison with the lamp filaments, the temperature changes involved are about 10 times less for cooker elements, and (presumably) even smaller for 'water-cooled' elements (showers, immersions, kettles etc.) - so the hot/cold differences in resistance (hence 'wattage') will be much smaller.

Kind Regards, John
 
Of course, in comparison with the lamp filaments, the temperature changes involved are about 10 times less for cooker elements, and (presumably) even smaller for 'water-cooled' elements (showers, immersions, kettles etc.)
I suppose it will to a certain extent.

By how much do you think the actual filament inside the shower or immersion element will be cooler than in an oven element in air (ignoring any cycling).
 
Of course, in comparison with the lamp filaments, the temperature changes involved are about 10 times less for cooker elements, and (presumably) even smaller for 'water-cooled' elements (showers, immersions, kettles etc.)
I suppose it will to a certain extent. By how much do you think the actual filament inside the shower or immersion element will be cooler than in an oven element in air (ignoring any cycling).
As we've discussed before, that's very hard to know - but it surely must be appreciably cooler for an element in intimate contact with liquid water (<100 °C) than one surrounded by air at 250 °C?

Kind Regards, John
 
The element exterior obviously is but I'm not so sure about the filament inside.
As I said, that's what's difficult to know. However, one can but presume that they are designed to have a path of as low thermal resistance as possible between the filament and its casing, so it would seem unlikely that there would be massive thermal gradients between the two.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks for advice on this fault.

The new element arrived today, I fitted it, just bending the earth leads out of the way and ran the oven for quarter of an hour without it tripping the RCD. Usually, if it trips, it trips while the thing is still heating up, so it looks hopeful that it just needed a new element. (I remember now, with some bitterness, the electrician who advised us to buy a new oven.)

Thanks again, you have just saved me a few hundred quid.
 

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