Overboarding a kitchen

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

asbestoes in artex was very common in the 1980s

 

[cantaloup63]

19mm will be fine. What size boards will you be using - I'm sure prentice will be able to advise on centre spacings

 

[caparn]

I've already bought the boards, 1800mm x 900mm x 12.5mm

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

When battening out a ceiling, you need to put battens all the way around the perimeter edges.
I normally go for 400mm centres as this suits the 2400mm boards but as you are using 1800mm boards I would plan for them to reduce the cuts and joints in the boards.
So you need to measure and space allowing for 1800mm.
Don't forget the joint line for butted boards should be in the centre of the batten.
So after fitting perimeter battens, measure from you starting wall perpendicular to existing joists and fit a batten at 1800mm at centre point.
Then from the same wall you can do battens at 360mm centres and that should give you good secure well spaced out batten fixing points for 1800mm boards.
You may find when come to the opposite wall, that the you can not get a perfect 360mm measure for the last batten but if is less that is fine, any more then fix an extra batten in.
Also be aware that the room is very unlikely to be square, so when battening out try to keep the measured battens square at right angles to the bonded side of the board. If the non bonded edge is not square at the wall side this is easier to cut and does not effect the rigidity of the bonded side.

 

[peaps]

wow heard it all now

 

[caparn]

Do the batons have to be screwed into the rafters?

What do you screw the ends of the boards into? Or do I need to put batons where all the edges of the plasterboard are? So i would have batons laid out like the edges of the plasterboard?

Also, have you got any advice on cutting the plasterboard? Should I just use a Stanley knife?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The battens must be screwed in the joist in the ceiling void.
You batten out so the butted ends of the boards (the non bonded edge) hit the centre of the batten, there is no real need to batten out along the bonded edge of the board, as the bonded edge with offer support against sagging.
A stanley type or craft knife will cut in to the boards.
PS the bonded edge of the board is the edge that has been sealed, this is along the length of the 1800mm board, the butted edge will be the 900mm edge which you make the cuts in to for your overall lengths.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

wow heard it all now

So you didn't know that then?

 

[peaps]

wow heard it all now

So you didn't know that then?

i stick to the industry standard 450, saves guessing for other alter on down the line

 

[peaps]

Thanks, the driver bits look good. Do they also hold the screw while you are drilling so you can drill with just one hand?

yes, magnetic

 

[peaps]

you could pva the lot, put a thin coat of bonding on to level it out, then when dry pva and skim, job done.

 

[caparn]

Thanks, the driver bits look good. Do they also hold the screw while you are drilling so you can drill with just one hand?

yes, magnetic

I bought one of these it's ok but doesn't seem to hold the bit too well on its own.

you could pva the lot, put a thin coat of bonding on to level it out, then when dry pva and skim, job done.

That's how the rest of the ceilings in the house were skimmed but the problem with the kitchen is that there is a 1 inch gap in the ceiling where a partition wall was removed (see photo in previous posting), also there are some lighting wires stuffed into this gap now so I think overboarding is the best solution?

 

[peaps]

Thanks, the driver bits look good. Do they also hold the screw while you are drilling so you can drill with just one hand?

yes, magnetic

I bought one of these it's ok but doesn't seem to hold the bit too well on its own.

you could pva the lot, put a thin coat of bonding on to level it out, then when dry pva and skim, job done.

That's how the rest of the ceilings in the house were skimmed but the problem with the kitchen is that there is a 1 inch gap in the ceiling where a partition wall was removed (see photo in previous posting), also there are some lighting wires stuffed into this gap now so I think overboarding is the best solution?

bond the gaps....

 

[peaps]

http://www.asbestosregisters.co.uk/asbestos_products/asbestos_textured_coating_artex.aspx

 

[caparn]

peaps,
What do you mean by "bond the gaps"
The photo is a close up of the gap.
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