Packers (or not) when fitting a upvc door?

[RrogerD]

I'm fitting a (second-hand) upvc door and frame into a rebate as previously occupied by a hardwood door frame. It's going to take a bit jiggery-pokery to slot it in but it should work. My query is, once slotted in I won't have access to the back of the sides to put packers in before screwing to the brickwork.
Am I ok with simply squirting expanding foam into screw holes and leaving to harden and then screwing through this into the brick?
TBH I haven't really got any other choice.

 

[23vc]

I don’t think trying to foam through a screw hole’s going to do much.

I’d just chop the plaster reveal off on one side so you can fit and pack it properly and re-do it after

 

[RrogerD]

I don’t think trying to foam through a screw hole’s going to do much.

I’d just chop the plaster reveal off on one side so you can fit and pack it properly and re-do it after

Mmm. Not really an option tbh. I'm not a plasterer and so getting one in to reform it will be another couple of hundred quid, plus redecorating etc.
Why don't you think that the expanding foam will work? I suppose, there's too much flex in unsupported screws and the whole will come loose fairly quickly.
I guess one solution would be to chop away a portion of the plaster and slip packers in. At least that way the plaster can be patched easily.

 

[23vc]

If one side’s completely plumb, you might be able to get it in tight on that side, then knock a few chunks off the reveal on the opposite side (and top, if it’s not perfectly level) and pack. Then make good with easifil etc to re-form the angle

 

[23vc]

…and if neither side are plumb, you could stick (with foam or whatever) packers on it to make it plumb, before putting frame in. Then do as above.

 

[jj4091]

Mmm. Not really an option tbh. I'm not a plasterer and so getting one in to reform it will be another couple of hundred quid, plus redecorating etc.
Why don't you think that the expanding foam will work? I suppose, there's too much flex in unsupported screws and the whole will come loose fairly quickly.
I guess one solution would be to chop away a portion of the plaster and slip packers in. At least that way the plaster can be patched easily.

Could you fit upvc trim around the reveal once you have disturbed the plaster and installed the packers, so that you don't need to repair the plaster work afterwards.

 

[noseall]

I'm fitting a (second-hand) upvc door and frame into a rebate as previously occupied by a hardwood door frame. It's going to take a bit jiggery-pokery to slot it in but it should work. My query is, once slotted in I won't have access to the back of the sides to put packers in before screwing to the brickwork.
Am I ok with simply squirting expanding foam into screw holes and leaving to harden and then screwing through this into the brick?
TBH I haven't really got any other choice.

Use concrete screws and the correct masonry bit size. You will need to lose the plaster on one side in any case.

 

[cdbe]

I'm guessing, looking at the depth of the rebate, he's trying to shove it all the way in one side then moving it across centrally. Should be plenty of room to poke a foam gun pipe in. I would tighten the concrete screws to hold the frame in place and stop it bending while the foam expands and then nip them tight when it's set.

 

[noseall]

I'm guessing, looking at the depth of the rebate, he's trying to shove it all the way in one side then moving it across centrally. Should be plenty of room to poke a foam gun pipe in. I would tighten the concrete screws to hold the frame in place and stop it bending while the foam expands and then nip them tight when it's set.

Concrete screws grip the frame as well as the wall. The main issue with them is that if the frame is distorted as it's being fixed, it will remain distorted. Window fitters love them. They use packers, but only until the screws are snug, then they actually pull the packers out, because the CS has gripped the frame.

Foam? Always, once the screws are snug.

 

[RrogerD]

Sorted.
Bit of a ball-ache. Had to remove plaster on the one side. Couldn't centralise it In the hole due to constraints of irregular shaped hole and hinges knocking on the kitchen unit.
All squared, screwed, packed and foamed now and all good.
Happy days!

 

[noseall]

Had to remove plaster on the one side.

I'm sure a poster mentioned that somewhere....

 

[noseall]

Sorted.
Bit of a ball-ache. Had to remove plaster on the one side. Couldn't centralise it In the hole due to constraints of irregular shaped hole and hinges knocking on the kitchen unit.
All squared, screwed, packed and foamed now and all good.
Happy days!

I see the door glass rebates, have already got toe 'n' heel packers there, ready to go. If the door needs jigging upwards, you can lever off the glass (I know sounds mad) with a broad bolster and add packers above the glass units.

 

[RrogerD]

I see the door glass rebates, have already got toe 'n' heel packers there, ready to go. If the door needs jigging upwards, you can lever off the glass (I know sounds mad) with a broad bolster and add packers above the glass units.

What do you mean by "add packers above the glass units"?
There's no room for the frame to move upward but the door itself, yes would be nice to lift it a couple of mm or so. It currently just catches the vinyl when opened fully. I was going to see if there was any adjustment possible at the hinges or, to just leave it.

 

[noseall]

What do you mean by "add packers above the glass units"?

It's only if the door 'drops' when the weight of the glass is added. You can actually lever the door back into shape using the DGU and toe/heel packers.

 

[charliegolf]

. You can actually lever the door back into shape using the DGU and toe/heel packers.