parquet blocks - where to start

[top tips]

Hi
I am about to lay a parquet block floor and have read many of the various threads on the subject. The blocks are new and the floor is concrete and flat. I am aware that the first block is the most important one as clearly all of the others "square" from it so to speak and I have chalked a centre line and laid a dry row to ensure they are equi distant from each wall? The question is where is the best place to start, is it best to lay a row against a straight edge first and then continue with the pattern (herringbone) once they have set or are there better ways of ensuring I get off to the right start!. Would appreciate any advice.

 

[WoodYouLike]

You're on the right track.
Install the first two pattern rows (one pointing left, one pointing right), make sure it is bonded firmly to the underfloor before you continue with the next row (otherwise your pattern will move).

What adhesive do you plan to use and do you have to correct notched trowel?

 

[top tips]

Thanks for your response WoodYouLike. The adhesive is Lecol 5500 and I have the correct trowel thanks.

Re "install the first 2 pattern rows" - should I run the first 2 pattern rows all the way down the length of the room before continuing?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Yes you should. This way you are also sure your middle line is correct. But don't be surprised if your blocks 'stray away' from the line you've drawn. No room is every absolutely straight. Just make sure your blocks are tight together and let 'it' find its own line.

 

[veryfluffy]

But don't be surprised if your blocks 'stray away' from the line you've drawn. No room is every absolutely straight.

Ain't it the truth! I'm just finishing laying reclaimed woodblocks in a herringbone (perpendicular, not diagonal pattern). I tried to pick a straight line to work from, but in a 6m x 5m room, each wall ended up a couple of inches out of line. My solution was to start from the focal point, where it would matter if the line was straight: the hearth around the fireplace. That's worked out pretty well.

(I'm now filling in 1/3 and 2/3 blocks on the edges to a straight line. Then, around the perimeter of the room I am doing a border using much larger blocks end on to the wall, and just trimming the ends where necessary.)

 

[WoodYouLike]

(I'm now filling in 1/3 and 2/3 blocks on the edges to a straight line. Then, around the perimeter of the room I am doing a border using much larger blocks end on to the wall, and just trimming the ends where necessary.)

You want a trick of the trade? (Only works with not too thick blocks though).

Install uncut blocks all the way through (even over your 'borderline'). Let it bond properly yo the underfloor. Then, with a decent circular saw - preferably one on a rail - cut off the 'overlapping' bits of those blocks that went over the 'borderline. Then fill in your border.

 

[top tips]

Thanks again WoodYouLike it.

Just one more question, once you have laid the two pattern rows and they have bonded do you continue by laying two more rows all the way down the room and then keep repeating?

Re borders - if you haven't got one of those posh plunge saws and a rail, I understand that you can use a router with the correct spiral bit (like one you would use for morticing) and a straight edge. When routing 20mm blocks though I think it would be sensible to make 2 runs and only cut to a depth of 10mm each time.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Re installing rows: yes, continue up/down and keep checking if your blocks are tight together. Once in a while you will notice gaps appearing. Don't force you pattern too much to close those gaps - this will result in even larger gaps further down.

Never heard of the 'router' method, but then again we do have a plunge saw and rail (Give it a try I would say, but not on your floor first)

 

[veryfluffy]

You want a trick of the trade? (Only works with not too thick blocks though).

Install uncut blocks all the way through (even over your 'borderline'). Let it bond properly yo the underfloor. Then, with a decent circular saw - preferably one on a rail - cut off the 'overlapping' bits of those blocks that went over the 'borderline. Then fill in your border.

Mine are about 2 1/4 inches thick!

 

[mattysupra]

to center herringbone the center is a half center board. I like to dry lay about half a square meter and then use a masking tape to hold all the boards together.

Once there all nice and tight and taped together, draw around them and then slide out of the way and glue the area you marked out

next get someone to help you lift the boards (still taped) back into the glue.

If you center correct, all your cuts are the same so you can set up a jig on your saw to bang them all out.

A plung saw and track is my prefered method tho. You can use a router but only plunge 5mm at a time max, you will also get through a few bits so expensive way.

 

[mattysupra]

this may help for getting the center.

 

[top tips]

Thanks for that. I've never heard of the taping method - what are the advantages of starting this way over the more conventional way described by WoodYouLike?

I would prefer to use a plunge saw but trying to find a hire firm that supplies them and a rail ain't easy. I have my own 1 1/2 hp router although it will clearly take a bit longer. I guess the router bit might get damaged on the final plunge if you aren't careful but it must be the same with the saw blade too. Just a fraction too deep and you are cutting concrete!

 

[top tips]

You want a trick of the trade? (Only works with not too thick blocks though).

Install uncut blocks all the way through (even over your 'borderline'). Let it bond properly yo the underfloor. Then, with a decent circular saw - preferably one on a rail - cut off the 'overlapping' bits of those blocks that went over the 'borderline. Then fill in your border.

Mine are about 2 1/4 inches thick!

2 1/4 thick, wow that sounds like small gate posts to me! Mine are 230 x 70 x 20.

 

[mattysupra]

if you tape them all together nice and tight, you will be guarrated to have a better fitting floor and you will not run out at all as you will be able to see before glueing / laying!

 

[top tips]

if you tape them all together nice and tight, you will be guarrated to have a better fitting floor and you will not run out at all as you will be able to see before glueing / laying!

Sounds good, I will dry lay some and stick together with tape and take a look. When you say about half a metre do you mean just 2 rows (blocks) wide in a cheveron pattern, which would be long and thin, or do you mean several rows wide and more of a ragged square if you get my drift.