Just did a dry run - how simple and straight forward. As you say get them nice and tight and you're away. Thanks for the tip matty. When laid and the glue has gone off so they don't move do you carry on laying as suggested by WoodYouLike i.e. 2 or 3 blocks wide all the way down the room and then start again?
yes, when the center bit is glued and set you can work off it running up and down the room. If you need to work on top of the glued floor, make sure you put a piece of plywood down ontop so the blocks dont move. You may also want to use tape to hold rows in place. DONT leave tape on for long periods of time as it might not want to come off.
Well, I eventually started laying the blocks and laid about 2 sq mtrs but could not keep them tight so I took them up and tried again and had the same problem.
When I looked closely it appeared that some were wider than others so I measured a fair few and they varied some were 70mm, some between 70 and 70.5 and others between 70.5 and 71. I expected some variation but not this much. I have tried on several occasions to lay them dry but because of the variation they are just impossible to keep tight.
I did lay a few mtrs in a small hall about 3 years ago and they are perfect (even if I had forgotten how I started!). I also had about a mtr of the same blocks left over so laid those dry and they were still good. They were prime european oak and came from somewhere in europe via parquetwoodflooring .co.
These are also prime european oak and came from Atkinson and Kirby.
The question is what shall I do now. I have about 22 sq mtrs to lay in total and as woodyoulike mentions in one of her tips I could plaster the floor with filler during the sanding stage but I am really worried that the filler will not penetrate as the gaps are on average only large enough to put a stanley knife blade in and mostly on the end of the blocks. Besides that it's a lot of blooming filling to do.
Should I perhaps contact the supplier and complain and hopefully get replacements? Your advice would be greatly appreciated as I am getting very frustrated and still have the floor to lay. On the other hand am I being too particular that said my hall floor looks fantastic
With a normal wooden floor (floor boards) these differences wouldn't be that big of a problem. when installing a herringbone pattern however these 0.5mm difference per block will end up with wider gaps the further you install the pattern - the gap 'accumulates' so to speak.
Call your supplier and see what they have to say. (Guessing: some differences between the blocks are allowed )
Ok you experts what's the secret? I bought an Osmo oil floor brush to do my oak parquet and did not put it on too thickly, it dried in about 7 hours (hard enough to walk on in my socks) but had a shed load of brush marks in it. I waited until this morning, sanded them out and applied the next coat with a paint brush and finally laying off with the grain on each block.
The floor is about 21 square meters and it took a long time but I now want to give it a final coat as I had to sand a fair bit off - there must be a quicker and better way to avoid brush marks and a streaky finish?
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