Penetrating Damp on top of bay window

[santosh86]

Hi, I am new to this wonderful group.

There is a penetrating damp issue on top of the bay window. Not exactly sure from where the water is entering. One of the roofer told me that needs repointing and also to seal the lead where there are gaps, replaster inside the house where the damp patch is.

Another guy told me to replace the bay top roof with new Fibreglass bay top roof (£1800 quote)

I am not sure whether i am going in the right direction, can anyone please help if bay roof needs replacing by looking at attached photos.

 

[noseall]

Hi, I am new to this wonderful group.

There is a penetrating damp issue on top of the bay window. Not exactly sure from where the water is entering. One of the roofer told me that needs repointing and also to seal the lead where there are gaps, replaster inside the house where the damp patch is.

Another guy told me to replace the bay top roof with new Fibreglass bay top roof (£1800 quote)

I am not sure whether i am going in the right direction, can anyone please help if bay roof needs replacing by looking at attached photos.

...or it could be the window beam (timber possibly?) flexing and causing the mortar to split away wholly from the masonry, thus admitting rainwater?

 

[santosh86]

Thank you for the reply. Windows beams are uPVC, previous owner replaced the window 5 years back. There are no damp patches on the bay window ceiling (inside). Also, we had cavity wall insulation (beads) done 1 year back

 

[noseall]

Windows beams are uPVC, previous owner replaced the window 5 years back.

I'm on about the beam that supports all the masonry over the window opening, lol.

 

[santosh86]

I'm on about the beam that supports all the masonry over the window opening, lol.

Sorry, I got you now

 

[ree]

OP,
The beam supporting the upper facade is called a Bressumer Beam.

 

[santosh86]

OP,
The beam supporting the upper facade is called a Bressumer Beam.

Thank you,

 

[omph]

Re-pointing may do the trick. Mortar is an issue since it does give eventually and water will seep through the tiniest of cracks. Your best bet would be to replace the mortar with a lead flashing sealant and then take it from there. I'm afraid there is no quick fix with these types of problems, it's usually trial and error.

 

[santosh86]

Thank you, I am planning to repoint and do the lead flashing. I noticed that when there is a wind in particular direction there is water leak inside. But in normal rain there is no problem. I will try and see as you mentioned, hopefully it may sort the problem.

 

[ree]

OP,
You have faux(fake) stone cladding - there are re-sealed crack on the LH & RH, suggesting a past problem?
Remove all the cover flashing & grind out to a 25mm depth a long chase - the lead turn has to be about 20mm. The cover flashing should not contact the roof flashing, keep it 15mm short.
Is the roof sheet lead in one piece or more than one piece? Max length for lead sheet is 1.5m - 1.6m.

 

[santosh86]

OP,
You have faux(fake) stone cladding - there are re-sealed crack on the LH & RH, suggesting a past problem?
Remove all the cover flashing & grind out to a 25mm depth a long chase - the lead turn has to be about 20mm. The cover flashing should not contact the roof flashing, keep it 15mm short.
Is the roof sheet lead in one piece or more than one piece? Max length for lead sheet is 1.5m - 1.6m.

Thank you Ree.
Resealed cracks are filled by CWI company before doing the CWI, never had any issues in the last 2 years. Currently the lead sheet on the roof is in one piece which is 1.4m approx

 

[ree]

OP,
Fine then for the faux cladding. But what do you intend to do about the flashing chase etc that I mentioned?

 

[foxhole]

The lead will probably only be dressed to the depth of the cladding meaning it’s an easy route for rain down behind the cladding and bypassing the lead work.
If redoing the lead think about cutting out the cladding to the same dimensions of the lead work so it’s sealing back to original brickwork .

 

[santosh86]

OP,
Fine then for the faux cladding. But what do you intend to do about the flashing chase etc that I mentioned?

Sorry, I am planning to fill all the cracks and apply lead sealant where required. I would like to monitor for couple of months for any more issues. If this resolves the problem I will replaster etc. on internal wall.

If I find any more issues within this two months, I need to hire someone to do the proper lead flashing as you suggested

 

[noseall]

OP,
You have faux(fake) stone cladding

Wrong again.

Have another look.