No the sensor doesn;t engages the brakes, only the pedal, but it depends on the weight of the pedal and the hydraulic pressure alone to turn the brakes off - the pedal needs to lift clear.
Peugeot 406 Brakes
- Thread starter cwhaley
- Start date
No the sensor doesn;t engages the brakes, only the pedal, but it depends on the weight of the pedal and the hydraulic pressure alone to turn the brakes off - the pedal needs to lift clear.
Sponsored Links
Where's the brake light switch on these? If it's pedal mounted, could the switch be faulty and keeping the pedal from returning fully?
Yep it's on the top of the pedal and is a swine to get to....I haven't changed one but I remember seeing it when I was taking the squeak out of the clutch pedal.
On the 407 Peugeot recommend removing the steering column
John
On the 407 Peugeot recommend removing the steering column
John
Drivers seat all the way back, head under dash legs in air and a good light.
Sponsored Links
....and a visit to the chiropractor later
Remember the 205? The brake switch was on the passenger side.....on conversion to RHD Peugeot connected the brake pedal to the servo with rods and left the switch where it was.
Worked well too!
John
Remember the 205? The brake switch was on the passenger side.....on conversion to RHD Peugeot connected the brake pedal to the servo with rods and left the switch where it was.
Worked well too!
John
D
Deleted member 292770
a faulty servo will give the effect of the brakes being applied. And it gets steadily worse the further you go. Happened to me on an old passat.
I have had that when I adjusted the master cylinder push rod to try to get a better pedal on a MK2 Escort once. Worked fine for a while then I got the same symptoms as the OP.
I’ve never experienced that but I have had a master cylinder leaking brake fluid into the servo, resulting in a huge belch of white smoke coming from the exhaust from time to time (Petrols).
Several vacuum hoses failed on VAG stuff and two servos rusted through on knacky old Transits and that’s my lifetime experience.
John
(Petrols).Several vacuum hoses failed on VAG stuff and two servos rusted through on knacky old Transits and that’s my lifetime experience.
John
Not had chance to do any more on this. It's not manifested itself on any of my commutes to work and back (25-30 mins either way) but it will do it if I use the car again that evening - literally the brakes will apply themselves. Sometimes once sometimes more. There's a definite correlation between the length of time driven and the number of occurrences.
If the servo is faulty I might as well sell up and find another one. I'm in the owners' club and they come up now and then. Hate working with brakes -- the old Lockheed master and slave cylinders along with single-circuit brass pipes are the limit of my knowledge!
If the servo is faulty I might as well sell up and find another one. I'm in the owners' club and they come up now and then. Hate working with brakes -- the old Lockheed master and slave cylinders along with single-circuit brass pipes are the limit of my knowledge!
D
Deleted member 292770
it’s quite straight forward really . The hardest part is disconnecting the servo from the pedal inside usually.
There is a bypass port in the master cylinder which could also give similar symptoms. So you would be looking at changing the servo and master cylinder at the same time. Well I would anyway.
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 43,985
- Reaction score
- 2,894
- Country
Sounds like a position from the Carma Sutra....
As an update, I had a rear caliper (was seized) and a disc changed and the braking issue seems to be much better. The brake lights no longer stay on that extra second after release of the pedal and they are slightly sharper. Turns out the rear brake was binding after all so was likely contributing to the problem.
The brakes do apply themselves still after maybe the third or fourth journey of the day, but only very occasionally. Although lifting the pedal up does seem to solve the issue, I don't think its the return spring as coming off and then back on the throttle solves it too. Maybe there's a vacuum issue somewhere and the stuck caliper was worsening it.
For me the car is worth keeping on the road purely for its generous space, great fuel economy (not long done 750 miles on less than a full tank and otherwise great reliability. Including purchase price, MOTs and the yearly oil change the car has cost me £2k for four years' driving.
The brakes do apply themselves still after maybe the third or fourth journey of the day, but only very occasionally. Although lifting the pedal up does seem to solve the issue, I don't think its the return spring as coming off and then back on the throttle solves it too. Maybe there's a vacuum issue somewhere and the stuck caliper was worsening it.
For me the car is worth keeping on the road purely for its generous space, great fuel economy (not long done 750 miles on less than a full tank and otherwise great reliability. Including purchase price, MOTs and the yearly oil change the car has cost me £2k for four years' driving.
Are you saying that the brake pedal can always be lifted up slightly? It should always be at the very top of its stroke.
John
John
Are you saying that the brake pedal can always be lifted up slightly? It should always be at the very top of its stroke.
John
There is movement when the pedal is lifted from its resting position, perhaps 1/2" worth of travel. I can certainly move it with ease, yes.
I can't think of any instance where the pedal should have any free play - it needs to return to the top of it's travel every time, either by springing or more likely some sort of pushrod adjustment that connects the pedal to the master cylinder.
I'd guess this is where your problem lies.
John
I'd guess this is where your problem lies.
John
Sponsored Links
